Spartia is an authentically sleepy whitewashed village on the hillside above the sea. Although only 15 kms from Argostoli, and just 10-12 kms from the airport and organised resort area of Lassi, Spartia has remained traditional and untouristic and feels very much off the beaten track. Centred around its small square, as villages go it is more self-sufficient than many, boasting (in season) three wholesome local tavernas and two mini-markets.

Lush countryside all around makes Spartia good walking territory. Down by the sea (a mile via twisting country lane) is Spartia’s fishing jetty, flanked by a small sandy beach to each side - the sea here is good for children as the sand shelves very gently into clear warm water.

Lourdas, halfway along the south coast, has a long white-sand beach (with some shingle outcrops) which stretches for the best part of a kilometre and shelves gently into the bluest of seas. Sunbeds and small motorboats can be rented, and some half-dozen tavernas and a mini-market are dotted along its length.

A stiff ten minute walk up the hill is the original village of Lourdata. It’s an attractive little place, with a traditional plane-shaded square, three tavernas and a small shop or two.

Lourdas is very laid-back and offers a quiet relaxed stay near an excellent beach, with some good local tavernas close to hand.

Both of our selected areas are, with a car, well placed for further exploration of the south. There are plenty of other good beaches and small inland villages in either direction, culminating in the larger seaside village of Skala almost at the south-eastern tip (the nearest thing there is to a ‘resort’ here). Distances are not great – Skala is only about a 20-30 minute drive away. About the same journey time in the other direction is the attractive island capital of Argostoli, which could be an alternative (evening?) option. Organised trips include an island tour by coach and the islands of Ithaca and Lefkas by boat.