Amorgos is the easternmost island in the Cyclades, and is probably one of the most wild and unspoilt, giving the impression of going back in time. Rich in antiquities and scattered with beautiful old chapels and windmills, its windswept peaks plunge down into the crystal clear water of the Aegean. Linked by paved road only in 1995, the charming whitewashed villages each retain a distinct charm, and all offer wonderful cafes with home-made cakes, “raki psimmeno” and plenty of tiny streets to explore.
We spend 7 days walking along herb-scented ridges and cliffs, exploring archaeological treasures, visiting the magnificent 10th century monastery of Chozoviotissa and other pretty chapels, and of course have time to swim in some of the most beautiful bays in Greece. We also have the opportunity to take a boat trip to one of the nearby deserted islands. Based in the best hotel in Amorgos overlooking the picturesque bay of Aegiali, we sample the delicious island flavours in a variety of traditional tavernas.
Naxos is the largest of the Cyclades, its peak (Mount Zeus) the highest, and it is also the most fertile. Home to Dionysus, it produces excellent wines and Citron (a fragrant liqueur distilled from citron leaves). Lying hidden amid the rugged mountains and lush valleys of the interior are marble antiquities, castles and charming neoclassical buildings, which we visit on our 2 days of walking.
We stay in a charming traditional-style pension just below the castle in the Hora (main town) of Naxos, and enjoy some unusual and delicious cuisine. Apart from 2 days of extremely varied walking, there is time to explore this fascinating town, visit the excellent cycladic and venetian museums, swim, and of course do some shopping for interesting crafts and jewellery.
Day 1
We meet you off your early morning flight to Athens and after lunch transfer you straight to the port to catch our evening ferry to Amorgos. We arrive very late in Aegiali and transfer to our nearby hotel.
Day 2
After a restorative breakfast there is an optional gentle walk from Tholaria to the exposed (abandoned) monastery of Aghios Ioannis Christostomos, high on the cliffs north of Aegiali, where we have panoramic views back across the bay. Returning the same way, we then walk down to the beach of Aegiali for lunch, leaving the afternoon free to explore the wonderful sandy beaches below the cliffs of our morning walk. (3.5 miles)
Day 3
Today we get more acquainted with our new surroundings. Setting off from the harbour of Aegiali we follow a beautifully paved kalderimi up to Langadha, probably the prettiest village in Amorgos, with its whitewashed amorphous houses, blue shutters and maze of streets. After stopping at a remarkable cliff-chapel, we wind our way through olive groves, across a lush gorge and contour on around to Tholaria, where we have lunch. A short walk down to the golden sandy beach of Aegiali gives us time for a swim or tea in one of the many village cafes. (7 miles)
Day 4
We drive up through Amorgos’ rugged landscape to the main town of Hora, where we visit the small but fascinating museum, a couple of churches and wander through the tiny picturesque streets decorated with cycladic symbols. After stopping for coffee and cake at a traditional cafeneion, we follow a beautiful old path offering views to both sides of the island to the monastery of Aghios Georgios Varsamitis, built on the site of an ancient aquatic oracle, where people used to have their fortunes told by signs on the surface of a sacred spring. After lunch there, we then contour through lush valleys to visit the hilltop site of ancient Minoa, from where we transfer back by van to Aegiali. (7 miles)
Alternative afternoon option to swim at the tiny beach of Aghia Anna, with its turquoise water and magnificent views back to the Khozoviotissa Monastery.
Day 5
Starting from Langadha we take a very steep and rocky path up to the old mills of Machos: these dominate the skyline at around 540m and for years were an essential part of the agricultural traditions of the island. The exertion to reach this point and the exposure once there reveals the hard life of past islanders. From here on a clear day we can see as far as Santorini and maybe even Ikaria. Descending again to Langadha for lunch, there is a chance to have coffee in a traditional cafeneion before we follow another winding kalderimi back to Aegiali for a refreshing swim. (5 miles)
Day 6
Today we drive back to Hora and visit the spectacular Monastery of Chozoviotissa, literally clinging to the towering cliffs like a stark white fortress. Founded in the 9th century by monks from Hozova in the Middle East fleeing the iconoclasm, this 8 storey architectural wonder houses some very old and unusual icons and relics. From here we then ascend the spine of Amorgos and walk all the way back to Aegiali, stopping to eat our packed lunch at an abandoned shepherd’s hut. This is a long, tough hike but probably one of the most rewarding of all, with magnificent views to the majestic cliffs of the south and to the islets to the north. A remote, rocky but inspirational walk. (12 miles)
Day 7
A day’s well-earned rest! We take a private caique out on a tour around the nearby deserted island of Nikouria, where there is the opportunity to swim and explore while we prepare your seafood lunch.
Day 8
A spectacular drive to Vroutsi, in the wild “Kato Meria” (southern end) of the island. Here we follow an ancient and well-trodden path to Kastri, site of the important mid-Cycladic settlement of ancient Arkesini, a naturally fortified acropolis which dominates the coastline. From there we follow tiny coastal paths back towards Minoa, stopping for a packed lunch in the remote landscape, silent except for the tinkling of goat bells or the waves below us. We then continue on down to the harbour of Katapola for tea before driving back to Aegiali. (9.5 miles)
Day 9
Our final walk in Amorgos starts from Langadha. We take a wonderful old kalderimi winding steadily up through lush meadows and shade (very unusual in the Cyclades) to the oldest monastery on the island, Aghios Theologos, which dates back to the 7th century. From here we continue on to the unassuming chapel of Stavro - with probably the most dramatic and breathtaking view of the trip. Not for the faint-hearted, this tiny path leads us along towering cliffs which fall sheer to the sea, 500m below! Returning the same way, we stop for our packed lunch at Aghios Theologos, and continue back to Langadha for a coffee before our final swim in Amorgos. (9 miles)
Day 10
Early morning ferry to Naxos.
After lunch amid the dunes of one of Naxos’ most beautiful sandy beaches, we have time to swim and relax after our ferry trip. In the early evening there is a chance to walk out to visit the islet of Palatia, with its stone portal still standing from Lygdamis’ 6th century BC temple of Apollo, and to sample the local kitron before dinner.
Day 11
We drive to Halki, a village of tower houses in the fertile plain of the Tragea. We pass some geometric grave circles en route to the ruined 13th century hilltop castle of Marco Sanudo and descend to Potamia (river village) for lunch. We later follow a restored kalderimi (mule path) to visit a well-preserved “kouros” lying abandoned in a citrus grove, before continuing our walk to Kourounohori. (6 miles)
Day 12
After driving up to Apiranthos, high up on the eastern slopes of the island, our final walk follows a tiny path around Mt Fanari (880m) from where we have magnificent views of both the island and back to Amorgos. We then descend on a steep and rocky path to join the oleander-filled river bed and through lush orchards to the village of Moni, famous for its weaving. We have our picnic next to the charming 8th century chapel of Panagia Drosiani and continue on small kalderimia back to Halki before driving back to town. (8 miles)
Day 13
A free day to visit the excellent cycladic and venetian museums, and see some of the art and craft galleries dotted around the maze of tiny streets below the kastro.
Day 14
We take the morning ferry back to Piraeus from where we can transfer you either directly to the airport or to a central hotel in Athens.
General information
In May and September the weather should be fine and warm (without the strong meltemi winds of August), with an abundance of wild spring/autumn flowers. There are several occasions to swim: in Amorgos our hotel overlooks some of the best beaches on the island, and it also has a pool. However, both islands being mountainous and exposed, it is always worth being prepared for all conditions. The terrain is very rocky, so strongly supportive boots are essential, and some of the paths can be quite overgrown with prickly undergrowth, so it is a good idea to have trousers to slip on over shorts if necessary. For visiting the monastery in Amorgos, women MUST wear a skirt/sarong over shorts, and men must wear trousers. A medium sized day pack is essential for carrying PLENTY (at least 1 litre) of water and on a couple of occasions, a packed lunch, plus layers - i.e. light jumper and waterproof. We eat in a mixture of local tavernas and the hotels themselves, none of which are formal.
Please note that this trip can also run as a 10 day trip visiting Amorgos ONLY if preferred.
Transport
We take the largest and most reliable ferry from Piraeus to Amorgos (cost included in the trip price) rather than meet you at the airport in Naxos and risk the smaller local ferries. This will mean your first evening is on the ferry, but it gives you a chance to see the harbours of several other islands en route.
At the end of the trip, if you would prefer to fly back to Athens to connect with an earlier flight, there is a 9.45 flight from Naxos which gets into Athens at 10.30. This you would book yourselves, reducing the cost of your trip with me by £30.
Accommodation
In Amorgos we stay in the best hotel on the island, with beautiful views and run by enterprising and professional local family. It has comfortable rooms each with a balcony and all mod cons. There is a pool, bar and restaurant, and is in walking distance of beautiful beaches and the village of Aegiali.
In Naxos we stay in a quirky old mansion furnished with antiques and with a roof garden. It is situated at the top of the town just below the castle and is considered one of the best in Hora.
Food and wine
The Cyclades offer some interesting wines, which of course we will be trying out. In Amorgos we will sample “raki psimmeno” - raki distilled with honey, cinnamon and cloves. In Naxos the local tipple is Citron. Island food is quite different from the mainland, mainly due to the limited supplies. This often makes for a rather more imaginative cuisine than elsewhere in Greece. Fish is not as readily available as you might imagine, but vegetarian options are wonderful here. Picnics include healthy salads, local meats and cheeses, fruit and local wine.
Insurance
Please ensure that you have comprehensive insurance for every eventuality.
Visas etc
A valid passport is required. No visas, inoculations or vaccinations are required by citizens of the UK and Ireland for travel to Greece. It is advisable, however, to check with your doctor before departure. If you do not hold a UK passport, you must inform me of this fact when booking and contact the Greek embassy to see whether this is required in your case. It is your responsibility to to ensure that you have the correct and current visa documentation.
Cost
Money-wise, everything is included while you are with me: i.e. all your meals are paid for (except for lunch on day 13 or if you choose to opt out of the scheduled programme) as well as wine with dinner. However, any extra pre-dinner drinks, ice-creams, coffees etc are not. Greeks tend not to have coffee/tea after dinner - in fact you cannot usually get these in a taverna - so these are not included either. Entrance to the museum, churches etc. whenever you are with ME are all covered.
Price of trip: £2,310 (unavoidable single supplement of £275)
This trip runs with a minimum of 6 and a maximum of 12 guests.
Please use the booking form specific to Walking with Anna to confirm a place.
