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Seven night two centre foodie itinerary
Overview
Introduction
Crete has never really regarded itself as part of Greece. It has a character of its own and the Cretans are proud of their heritage and history. As we say in our brochure’s opening description of Crete: “the most striking aspect of this land is its people. Shaped by centuries of struggle against oppression, they are as rugged as the mountains, fiercely independent and passionately loyal to Crete and one another”.
They also feel that their cuisine epitomises what is now known as ‘The Mediterranean Diet’ which brings good health and longevity. Olives and olive oil, herbs, home grown fruit and vegetables and traditional dishes are very much a feature of the Cretan lifestyle.
This itinerary covers two very different parts of Crete, the more populous and flatter north coast and, cut off by the mighty White Mountains the more rugged and inaccessible south.
Itinerary includes:
- Return flights to Chania Airport
- Transfer upon arrival
- 5 day's car hire
- 4 Nights at the Doma Hotel, Chania (Bed and Breakfast)
- 3 Nights at the On the Rocks Hotel, Palechoria (Bed and Breakfast)
Board Basis: Bed & Breakfast
Agenda
Day 1 - Day of arrival
On arrival in Chania you will be transferred to the Doma Hotel, a welcoming property we have featured since 1976, which combines comfort with an old-world elegance. Owned and personally run by two sisters, and in the family since 1930, the Doma used to be the British Consulate and is a 10-15 minute walk from the Venetian harbour. Chania is one of the most beautiful cities in Greece and the Venetian harbour with all its restaurants, tavernas and bars is the place to be - especially in the evenings. Get off to a flying start by having your evening meal at the Tamam restaurant, located in a 15th century Turkish steam bath building and founded as a restaurant in 1982. They serve excellent traditional Greek dishes with a Turkish eastern European twist using local ingredients.
Overnight at the Doma Hotel.
Doma Hotel, North West Crete, Greece
Day 2 - Explore the city of Chania
Chania is a fascinating city and it is well worth exploring all the narrow streets and small shops. For lunch, try a light snack down by the harbour.
Thalassino Ageri is closely located to the Doma Hotel - in the Halepa area of Chania - and is known for its fresh fish and delicious seafood. A reservation is usually required which our representative, Linda can help with.
Overnight at the Doma Hotel.
Chania Old Town, North West Crete, Greece
Day 3 - A drive to Vamos
Your car will be delivered straight after breakfast or whenever you choose to take it. Today visit the traditional village of Vamos, just a 40 minute drive away along the good north coast road and then a short distance inland. Spend the morning wandering around the village. Lunch should then be in the traditional taverna of Sterna Tou Bloumosifis. Here you will find excellent Cretan dishes made with local ingredients and cooked in local virgin olive oil. They also have a good selection of Cretan cheeses (try Kefalotiri) and Cretan wines. It’s the harbour again for your evening stroll and people watching.
Overnight at the Doma Hotel.
Vamos oil plantation, Vamos, Crete, Greece
Day 4 - East versus west
Today you can either go east or west. An hour’s drive to the west brings you to an area that is wild and lesser visited called Falasarna, right at the far end of the island via the small market town of Kastelli. Falasarna has a very famous beach, usually relatively sparsely populated and overlooked by a handful of really local tavernas. To the east is the third largest city in Crete, Rethymnon, which is also a one hour drive. Like Chania, Rethymnon bears many Venetian influences and you can easily spend the whole day exploring the city. Try the Castelo restaurant in the heart of the old town for bags of character and outdoor seating. Of course our local reps Linda and Chrissy in the Chania area can make any number of recommendations. Linda claims that she can point you in the direction of a very local taverna with excellent Greek cooking where you would pay no more than €12 each with a salad and local wine as well as a main course! She maintains that the main courses are €6 each. Put her to the test for your evening meal! (Based on 2024 prices).
Overnight at the Doma Hotel.
Falasarna beach, Crete, Greece
Day 5 - A scenic drive across the White Mountains
The drive from Chania to Paleochora for the second centre of your trip will take one and a half hours (71 km) if you went straight there. However, don’t be in a rush because this is a very scenic drive across the White Mountains which rise to over 8,000 ft. Stop for a coffee and a ‘spanakopita’ (spinach pie) and admire the views. In the evening join the throng on Paleochora’s main street to people watch and to eat in one of the many tavernas, cafes and restaurants.
Overnight at On The Rocks Hotel.
On The Rocks Hotel, South West Crete, Greece
Day 6/7 - Free time in Paleochora
Paleochora is for swimming and walking amongst the dramatic scenery, and for snacking at Vakakis Family Bakery right on the seafront. The bakery is the centre point of this village and quality is truly great. It all happens on the main street in the evening when the road is closed to traffic and there is a lively cosmopolitan atmosphere which characterises this rather cult resort village. The main beach stretches for nearly a kilometre and is of fine golden sand; and behind tower the White Mountains. Your hotel is literally on the rocks but you are only a minute’s walk from the many cafes and restaurants and the beach is a five minute stroll. We have featured Paleochora for many years and have found the food in the local tavernas (there are over twenty to choose from!) to be uniformly excellent - hand on heart we can honestly say we have never had a bad meal here.
2 overnights stay at On The Rocks.
Paleochora, Crete, Greece
Day 8 - Day of departure
Make sure you allow plenty of time to drive back to the airport to return your car and to catch the flight back home. You will find the north coast rather tame after having been in Paleochora for three nights.
Accommodation
Doma Hotel - Night 1 to 4
This most civilised hotel combines comfort with an old-world elegance and has been featured several times in ‘The Good Hotel Guide’.
This most civilised hotel combines comfort with an old-world elegance and has been featured several times in ‘The Good Hotel Guide’. It used to be the British Consulate, and stands across the road from the sea 1 km from the centre of town and a 15 minute walk from the harbour.
Owned by the genteel sisters, Rena Valiraki and Ioanna Koutsoudaki whose family home this once was, the hotel is full of antiques, family heirlooms and photographs, historical prints and generally fascinating Cretan ephemera collected over many years. It has 20 rooms and 4 suites, all with air-conditioning, ceiling fan, WiFi, TV, safety deposit box, hairdryer and shower room. Those at the front have good sea views but no balcony and are above a busy road; we favour those to the rear which have a balcony overlooking the small attractive garden.
The hotel also has three first floor suites at the front and a very private Penthouse Suite which has a huge roof-terrace to itself and panoramic views to the sea and old town. On the third floor and served by a lift is a beautifully decorated breakfast room with wonderful views over the sea to the harbour. To the rear of the hotel there is a small ‘secret’ garden littered with pieces of pottery and sculpture.
Fine beaches lie to either side of Chania and can be reached by bus, hire car or taxi - the hotel supplies beach towels on request. For a quick dip you could swim from a narrow strip of sand and shingle below the hotel (note: rough path down). Chania's splendid new Archaeological Museum is a ten minute walk away.
Note: Most of our rooms, unless otherwise requested, will be to the rear of the hotel with balcony and garden view.
On The Rocks Hotel - Night 5 to 7
Good name! This smart modern little hotel is indeed almost on the rocks above the sea just to the south of Paleo's jetty, and looks east to the ruggedly beautiful coastline here.
Good name! This smart modern little hotel is indeed almost on the rocks above the sea just to the south of Paleo's jetty, and looks east to the ruggedly beautiful coastline here.
The hotel has 16 rooms on its first and second floors, served by an exterior glass lift. Rooms have a cool contemporary design, measure 16 sq m and are twin or double bedded. All have air conditioning, free Wifi, TV, safe deposit box, mini-bar, hairdryer, shower, and a balcony with exquisite sea and coastline views.
There are also a couple of Suites (25 sq m) comprising a double bedroom and a separate living room with a sofa bed for one adult or two smaller children - facilities and views are as per the Standard rooms. But the best views are reserved for the top floor Penthouse Suite under the eaves. This spacious unit (80 sq m) can sleep up to 6 as it comprises two bedrooms - a double and a twin (skylight windows) - plus a spacious separate living room with two full-sized sofa beds, a kitchen with full cooker, fridge and dishwasher, and a washing machine. The open balcony to the front runs the length of the Suite and affords panoramic sea and mountain views.
The ground floor houses reception, lounge and café-bar.
You will find an array of seafront restaurants starting just a minute's walk away, and the big sandy beach is 5 minutes. Due to the generally flat nature of Paleo and the fact that the hotel has a lift, On The Rocks would be a good choice for those with mobility problems.