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Subbetica slow food itinerary
Overview
Introduction
The Subbetica region of Andalucia is unknown and very special. The rural economy dominates and the simple things in life are of paramount importance. A lot is also packed into a very small space which makes exploring the area very easy. The Subbetica is culturally rich but coy about its attributes. Physically, it’s wonderful and waiting to welcome you.
We have chosen three hotels for this itinerary which includes car hire and accommodation on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis. It’s all about the food and the ambience and the time to savour space and nature. We have allowed for three nights in each property but, if time is short and you feel you only have a week to spare, then it’s better to simply stay in two hotels rather than rush around trying to stay in three different places.
The properties are the 6 bedroom Casa Olea near Luque, the 7 bedroom Hospederia La Era in Almedinilla and the 4 bedroom Finca Las Encinas near Iznajar. We have chosen the Casa Olea because it is immersed in nature, the Hospederia La Era because it gives easy access to the cultural interest towns of Almedinilla and Priego de Cordoba and Finca Las Encinas for those with specific gourmet interests.
These are very small boutique establishments and early booking is recommended. We may have to change the order of the itinerary in order to secure the rooms.
Distances are tiny. From Malaga Airport it is just over an hour’s drive to Finca Las Encinas. From Finca Las Encinas to Hospederia La Era will take just over 40 minutes and from there to Casa Olea 25 minutes.
This simple, relaxing itinerary showcases Subbetica as it should be visited.
Itinerary includes:
- Return flights to Malaga Airport
- Car hire
- 3 Nights at Casa Olea, Priego de Cordoba (Bed and Breakfast)
- 3 Nights at Hospederia La Era, Almedinilla (Bed and Breakfast)
- 3 Nights at Finca Las Encinas, Iznajar (Half Board)
Agenda
Day 1 - Day of arrival
Self drive to Casa Olea near Priego de Cordoba. Casa Olea is in a very beautiful location being immersed in nature in a sea of olive trees. From the property there are wonderful views. This is the place for walking and for bicycling but predominantly for relaxing. Hire an e-bike for a day. There are recommended routes ranging from 10km to 100km! Many clients stay at the Casa Olea simply to switch off, such is the nature of the location. Once a week, before dinner, Tim and his wife organise informal olive oil tasting sessions when they also explain the whole process of olive oil extraction from the harvest to the mill. Olive oil represents the heritage of this area.
Casa Olea, Near Priego de Cordoba, Subbetica
Day 2 & 3 - Free time at leisure
Should you want to wander further afield on one of the days then we would certainly recommend a visit to Zuheros, (25 mins by car) said by many to be the most beautiful village in Spain. You can also fit in a visit to the white village of Luque (18 min by car) which is on the way. And if you really want to cram in as much as possible then use the half the day to drive to the two beautiful fortified UNESCO world Heritage towns of Baeza and Ubeda (1 hr 15 min by car). Your hosts at Casa Olea will advise what you can do and how best to spend your 3 nights in this wonderful location.
Overnight at Casa Olea, Priego de Cordoba, Subbetica.
Cycling on Via Verde greenway, Zuheros (near Casa Olea), Subbetica
Day 4 - Self-drive to the Hospederia La Era
Self-drive to Hospederia La Era, Almedinilla. This is a beautiful and elegant property and you may here, too, want to stay put and relax rather than explore but, this is the centre from which you can wander around the cultural heart of Subbetica. The owners Raoul and Davinia have created a thing of beauty with intense attention to detail.
At La Era you are located in the heart of Almedinilla, a white village immersed, as ever in this region, in a sea of olive trees. In the area around the town you will find the remains of a pre-Roman Ibero settlement where Phoenician and Greek relics were found and the Roman Villa of El Ruedo, one of the largest found on the Iberian peninsula, with well preserved mosaics, paintings and paving.
Almedinilla, Subbetica
Day 5 & 6 - Free time at leisure
A 15 minute drive will bring you to Priego de Cordoba, with its noble buildings, fine Baroque architecture, two spectacular fountains and a fine selection of churches and monasteries to visit. Priego is one of the beautiful towns of Andalucia and is set within the Sierra Subbetica Natural Park with its valleys of ancient holm oaks, gall oaks and white poplars backed by high limestone peaks.
Needless to say, arrangements can be made for olive oil tasting, walking and cycling.
Overnight at Hospederia La Era, Almedinilla, Subbetica.
Fuente del Rey, Priego de Cordoba
Day 7 - Self-drive to Finca Las Encinas
Self-drive to Finca Las Encinas, Iznajar. Here it’s all about food. Owned and managed by Clive and Maki his wife, it’s the gastronomic element that makes the stay here so special. Clive is the chef and trained for many years under a French master chef from Marseille. Needless to say ingredients are sourced locally and the Finca has its own organic vegetable garden. Clive has several signature dishes which are featured in a cookbook titled ‘Andaluz’ by Fiona Dunlop which was published in 2018. There are also classic Andalusian. Spanish and Mediterranean dishes which are presented in a dinner-party style, always using fresh organic ingredients.
Then there are the cookery courses which are available as an extra and are payable locally. These are not too intensive but are fun and informative and obviously you are encouraged to eat what you have cooked!
Iznajar, Subbetica
Day 8 & 9 - Free time at leisure
Activities are food orientated with visits to an olive mill, olive oil tasting, winery visits and wine tasting. Then there is the Cured Ham Museum, the Sugar Craft and Nougat Museum, the Almond Museum and the Mycological botanical garden in Zagrilla Alta which is near Priego de Cordoba. Of course, the location of the Finca is perfect, immersed in olive and holm oak (Encinas in Spanish) trees. You may not want to move away at all.
Lake Iznajar is a twenty minute drive where all sorts of water based activities are available and, of course. The village of Iznajar itself. Birds are to be seen everywhere and night sky viewing from the property is excellent.
Overnight at Finca Las Encinas, Iznajar, Subbetica.
Iznajar, Subbetica
Day 10 - Day of departure
Self-drive to the airport for your return flight back to the UK.
Accommodation
Casa Olea - Night 1 to 3
Tim Murray-Walker used to work for Journey Latin America, a competitor to our own Sunvil Latin America programme. He and Clare, his wife, were brave enough to put their dream into practice by creating a boutique hotel immersed in nature, in a stunning location and abiding by the sustainable standards which will preserve both the quality of a destination and, as a result, the future of travel.
Tim Murray-Walker used to work for Journey Latin America, a competitor to our own Sunvil Latin America programme. He and Clare, his wife, were brave enough to put their dream into practice by creating a boutique hotel immersed in nature, in a stunning location and abiding by the sustainable standards which will preserve both the quality of a destination and, as a result, the future of travel.
It is always difficult to find a hotelier who understands what Sunvil is trying to do, a hotelier who appreciates the Sunvil philosophy in travel. That understanding comes from personal experience of having worked for a like minded tour operator, of having visited and experienced the best and worst in accommodation and, as a result, creating a property which is perfectly in tune with the expectations of our clients – and in tune with its surroundings.
Casa Olea is a charming, six-bedroom boutique hotel, lovingly converted from an olive oil farmhouse, immersed in an ocean of olive groves and yet only a twenty-minute drive from Priego de Cordoba, a jewel of a town and the centre of the little-known mountainous region of Subbetica. Here was the border between Moorish and Christian Spain and it is now a unique, protected and undiscovered region of Andalucia. The fascinating blend of the two cultures is everywhere to be seen.
If you can tear yourselves away from the many walks and bike rides on offer locally (they have a good range of self-guide routes with notes and maps), from the birdwatching or from just relaxing, dreaming and appreciating the views from the Casa - then Granada and Cordoba are both just over an hour´s drive away for easy day trips (Malaga Airport is just 1 hour 40 minutes away).
At a distance of just 70 miles, the Renaissance picture-perfect towns of Baeza and Úbeda are also close at hand.
The Casa Olea is lovingly furnished, one of the best luxury B&Bs in Andalucia, and the perfect base for exploring – perhaps with a tailor-made two-country, four-centre self-drive holiday twinned with Extremadura in Spain and the Algarve and Alentejo in Portugal. Our expert team will be glad to discuss options.
Accommodation:
- 6 comfortable bedrooms
Amenities/Leisure:
- Tasty home-cooked evening meals served 6 nights a week, with a "set menu" changed daily based on fresh, locally-sourced produce. Dinner on the terrace under the stars from April-October
- Fully-stocked bar, personally-sourced range of wines from all over Spain, including many small, family-run bodegas in Andalucia
- Swimming pool (5m x 10m /up to 2m depth) and terraces with panoramic views of olive groves, hills and river forest. Sun loungers, comfy chairs and hammock to laze in under a shady pergola
- Cosy lounge with log fires in winter. Under-floor heating and hot water provided by an olive-pellet biomass boiler and solar panels
- High chair and cot available on request
- Free WiFi throughout the house
- This eco-friendly guesthouse uses 6 solar panels for all of their hot water needs. A biomass boiler is used for all under-floor heating and fired by burning olive pips/pellets created from the recycled waste at their local co-operative olive mill. And all ingredients used in their kitchen are sourced fresh and in season from local suppliers within a 15-mile radius
- Helpful advice, guidebooks and maps available for planning local excursions and day-trips to the Moorish wonders of the Alhambra in Granada and the unique Mosque-Cathedral ‘Mesquita’ in Córdoba.
- Olive groves and river woodland to explore with abundant wildlife, including wild boar, hare, eagles & bee-eaters. Books on wild flowers and birds at the house for guests to borrow
- There is a good range of self-guided hiking routes in the area - both from the house and from villages nearby, a short drive away. The owners offer very detailed walking notes and they usually come with a map or QR code download option to Wikiloc for navigation
- There are six hybrid bikes for rent locally (15 euros per day), which are ideal for exploring the quiet backroads around the area – suitable for all ages and abilities. The owners are happy to suggest routes in the area, ranging from 10km to 100km
- Approximately once a week, the owners run informal olive-oil tasting sessions at Casa Olea before dinner, where they explain all about the "olive to oil" process, from the harvest to the mill. You will be able to taste three different oils and delve into a lot of background about the olive oil heritage of this area and what to look for in quality oils. Price is 10 euros per person payable locally
- Casa Olea can also be rented as a private villa for groups who want to use the place exclusively. This works really well for multi-generational groups, family get-togethers or groups of friends with young children. This would include all the cooking and daily cleaning like a hotel, but it is just for the group so everyone has a real holiday. Three extra single beds and 2 extra child beds can be added if required. Three of the rooms can be set up as a triple room, so maximum capacity is 15. Minimum stay of 3 nights required
- Explore ancient olive groves, limestone peaks and river valleys of the Sierras Subbeticas, one of the least-known National Parks in Spain and a UNESCO Geopark
- Discover UNESCO World Heritage sites of Baeza and Úbeda; the white villages of Almedinilla and Zuheros; and the Fortaleza La Mota hill-top castle in Alcala La Real
- Visit a local bodega to sample the local Montilla-Moriles sherry wines in Montilla
- Casa Olea is a Starlight Hotel which means that it is one of the best places for stargazing in Spain
Hospederia La Era - Night 4 to 6
Hospederia La Era is a 2-star hotel with a 5-star feel. The ratings for this small hotel - just 7 bedrooms, and owned and managed by Raúl and Davinia - cannot be bettered. Approximately 150m from the town centre of Almedinilla, the Hospederia is a beautiful building in a stunning location which affords superb views across the surrounding many hundreds of acres of olive trees.
Hospederia La Era is a 2-star hotel with a 5-star feel. The ratings for this small hotel - just 7 bedrooms, and owned and managed by Raúl and Davinia - cannot be bettered. Approximately 150m from the town centre of Almedinilla, the Hospederia is a beautiful building in a stunning location which affords superb views across the surrounding many hundreds of acres of olive trees.
The rooms all have their own individual character, reflecting the tradition of Andalusian architecture; all are impeccably furnished and well looked after - but it is the passion and love that has gone into creating this very special place that marks Le Era apart.
The restaurant serves local cuisine of the highest quality and is therefore featured on a half-board basis.
The Hospederia La Era is ideally located for visiting part of the Subbética that is very rich in culture, and also for sampling some of the best olive oil in the world, for which Almedinilla is renowned.
Guests comment about the lovely pool, the comfortable beds, the stylish interiors – and, above all, the sheer attention to detail. This is the perfect place to relax - and also from which to explore.
La Era features in our three-centre fly-drive slow food/agrotourism/eco itinerary, along with Finca Las Encinas and Casa Olea. All are featured on a half-board basis because the cuisine they offer is first rate, very local and low food miles in provenance and, of course, fresh and carefully cooked and presented.
Accommodation
- 7 air-conditioned rooms including standard rooms, superior rooms and a junior suite, all stylishly decorated with rustic features such as wooden beamed ceilings and traditional tile flooring.
Amenities/Facilities
- Continental breakfast
- Restaurant serving traditional Mediterranean cuisine using organic products from their kitchen garden. Dinner reservations required locally.
- Café-bar serving light snacks with honesty bar and possibility of brunch and picnic on request
- Scenic sun terrace
- Free WIFI throughout
- Library
- Outdoor circular swimming pool (10m / 2m depth) open Mar-Nov
- Free street parking nearby
- Hospederia la Era is 150 metres from the centre of Almedinilla
- Alcalá de Real is 15-minutes’ drive and Priego de Córdoba is 5-minutes’ drive of the property.
- 146 km / c. 1-hour 35-minutes’ drive from Malaga Airport
- 115 km / c.1-hour 10-minutes’ drive to the city of Córdoba
- 76 km / c. 50-minutes’ drive to the city of Granada
- No children under 14 years old are permitted.
Local Activities
- Wineries – wine tastings are possible at D.O. Montilla-Moriles (45 minutes’ drive) and Alcalá La Real (15 minutes’ drive)
- Walking routes - Four self-guided walks (medium and medium- difficult)
- Cycling – Free e-bikes and mountain bikes available from reception
- Olive oil tasting – Can be arranged at the hotel (15 Euros per person) or in an oil mill in Priego de Córdoba (25 Euros per person)
Commitment to Environmental Sustainability
- Energy efficiency
- Energy-efficient heating and cooling systems
- Solar energy for hot water and biomass heating
- Low consumption lighting
- LED lighting
Waste reduction
- Safely disposing of electronics and batteries
- Refillable toiletry containers
- Water bottle filling stations
- No single-use plastic water bottles or straws
Water conservation
- Water-efficient taps
- Sustainable sourcing
- Responsible purchasing policy
- Organic food and beverages
- Locally sourced food and beverages
- Organic cage-free eggs
- Vegetarian meals
- Eco-friendly toiletries
Finca Las Encinas - Night 7 to 9
Finca Las Encinas describes itself as a gourmet bed and breakfast. But, the food by Clive, the chef, after many years of training under a French master chef from Marseille sets the bar very high . In fact, Clive is quite willing to impart his expertise and cooking courses (Andalusian, Spanish and Mediterranean) are available.
Finca Las Encinas describes itself as a gourmet bed and breakfast. But, the food by Clive, the chef, after many years of training under a French master chef from Marseille, sets the bar very high indeed. In fact, Clive is quite willing to impart his expertise and cooking courses (Andalusian, Spanish and Mediterranean) are available.
Finca Las Encinas is located in the small and quiet village of Los Juncares, a mere 8 km from Iznajar but is immersed in the olive landscape. A fusion of Welsh and Japanese - Maki Clive’s wife is Japanese - can only be unique, and you can easily get a strong sense of integration and commitment to their local community, enthusiasm bubbles from Maki. The creation of Finca Las Encinas has been a labour of love over 20 years, from a derelict farmhouse to an Andalusian jewel. Most of the original rustic features have been retained, reflecting their responsible and sustainable ethos.
The 3 rooms are simple and rustic, well equipped with underfloor heating in the winter months and electric fan in the summer. Locally made artesian ecological soap features in the bedrooms, the furniture is light, the floors polished tiles and the views are of olive and Holm Oak trees thronged with birds.
At night it’s very dark - perfect for night sky viewing! A perfect place to relax in perfect tune with the landscape of rolling hills surrounding you.
Accommodation
- 3 guestrooms including standard rooms and an annex suite, all with electric fan in summer, underfloor heating in winter and individually styled.
Amenities/Leisure
- Andalusian breakfast is served from 8am to 10am with freshly-squeezed fruit juice, a variety of home-baked bread, locally cured ham, cheeses, seasonal fruits and coffee or tea.
- Dinner service with a surprise du jour / daily menu. Three course dinners are served each evening. The chef's own recipes (some are featured in a cookbook titled ‘Andaluz’ by Fiona Dunlop published in 2018) and classic Andalusian/Spanish/Mediterranean dishes are presented in a dinner-party style, always using fresh organic ingredients, many of which are grown "at home" on the finca. Advance reservation is essential for evening meals
- Cookery courses on request (payable locally) - They are not too intensive but informative and fun, and you get to eat what you cooked.
- Reading area with a large selection of books
- Free WIFI access, may be limited in certain areas
- Honesty bar
- Outdoor swimming pool (4 x 8m) – Open all year-round
- Patios and plenty of outdoor space to chill out with hammocks, sun loungers and table and chairs
- Organic vegetable garden
- Free onsite parking
- 100 km /c.1-hour 10-minutes’ drive from Malaga Airport
- 96 km /c.1-hour 15-minutes’ drive from the city of Granada
- 114 km /c.1-hour 25-minutes’ drive from the city of Cordoba
Activities (can be arranged and are paid for locally)
- Olive mill visit and olive oil tasting c.50 Euros for a group of 1 – 5 people
- Winery visit and wine tasting – c.12 Euros per person for 3 different wines, 18 Euros for 5 wines, both with cheese and olives. Available in English Monday to Saturday mornings. Minimum 1 person.
- Cured ham museum in Rute – free entry
- Sugar craft and nougat museum in Rute – free entry
- Almond museum in Zamorano, near Priego
- Mycological botanical garden in Zagrilla Alta, near Priego
- Adventure sports from canoeing to rock climbing - Lake Iznajar or nearby
- Birdwatching
- Painting
- Selection of beauty treatments