Citrus Creek Plantation

Herve Nizard first set eyes on the Taberi Valley – set on the wild, eastern Coast of Dominica - in 2007. Surrounded by dense tropical bush, it was then a banana plantation and, in the recent past, had been a citrus estate. In the 18th century, it was a large sugar cane estate - and, before colonisation, it had been Kalinago (the indigenous people of the island) territory. Old buildings and ruins survive from the sugar-cane times.

The old estate distillery has been converted into a solar lab, where Citrus Creek’s sister company, Sustainable Earth - the pioneers of solar power in Dominica - has its headquarters, and from where it tests renewable energy systems.

Since 2007, this 20-acre estate has been transformed into a sustainable village environment – a mix of agriculture, an idyllic environment in which to stay, and also a working tropical plantation. Day tours can be arranged on request (payable locally) for those who prefer not to hire a car.

There are currently 12 cottages and villas at Taberi (which means ‘home’ in the Kalinago dialect). The properties are located alongside the river of the same name, two miles north of La Plaine village, just above Bout Sable beach, where sea turtles come to nest every year. Just below the Morne Trois Pitons UNESCO National Park, the area is surrounded by tropical greenery and waterfalls; it is ideal hiking territory.

You won’t find flat screen TVs here, or air conditioning, let alone overcrowded swimming pools, casinos, shops, beach bars, loud music or shopping malls. Here you are surrounded by virgin nature, cooling breezes and plentiful small beaches where you’ll truly be alone. Here you have space, a pristine river with pools in which to bathe, your own cottage with a private garden, and freedom to roam the 20-acre plantation, with its hundreds of fruit trees, organic crops and wildlife, including many birds (the hummingbirds, with their iridescent plumage, are a delight to watch).

The black-sand beach is a short stroll (about 400m) from the entrance to Citrus Creek. It is a wild Atlantic beach - not suitable for swimming, but perfect for barefoot walking and paddling. The views are endless.

Citrus Creek operates mostly off-grid – there is a complete solar power system, with the latest generation Ion-Lithium batteries meaning that, day and night, the estate runs on solar power. Last year, 99% of its energy came from the sun. It is interesting to read an excerpt from an article on Citrus Creek by Victron Energy: “Citrus Creek’s solar system is well designed. They do not ask clients to reduce their consumption. ‘Just try not to waste!’ That’s it.”

All cottages have a kitchen, so that you can cook your meals ‘at home’ should you wish. For breakfast, Citrus Creek supplies fresh bread, butter, jam, honey, coffee, tea, chocolate… you can enjoy your breakfast, on your private terrace, whenever you wish, in this little piece of heaven, tucked away amidst the intensely fresh, tropical greenery of the Nature Island, Dominica.

There is a restaurant on the plantation - the Riverside Café. It is open every day for dinner. Should you wish to dine there in the evening, simply inform the restaurant before 4pm. A half-board option is available, too – ask about it when you book. Very basic groceries can be purchased in nearby La Plaine village. If you plan to cook in your cottage during your stay, Citrus Creek advises that you purchase groceries while in Roseau - there are many supermarkets there and, of course, more choice – but basic groceries can also be purchased from the Riverside Café.

Staying at Citrus Creek is an adventure - the epitome of what Dominica offers the visitor. The estate itself says that it offers ‘barefoot luxury’. We, perhaps, would see it more as a place that offers a calm, relaxing ambiance, rather than the height of luxury – to us, it’s an excellent way to relax/chill out, and also a great base from which to explore the delightful Nature Island of Dominica, and to try as many of its wide range of adventurous options as wished – perfect for families and couples alike. (And there are NO dangerous or poisonous creatures on the island to worry about – but anti-mosquito cream is a sensible deterrent to apply daily, as in most tropical climates.)

Activity options across Dominica are many and varied - from diving to hiking, and from canyoning down waterfalls to canoeing the coast. Whale watching offers pretty much guaranteed sightings - unusually, whales can be sighted year-round, as there is a whale sanctuary in the warm seas off the island’s west Caribbean coast, where sperm whales give birth. And there’s the Indian River (where some scenes from Pirates of the Caribbean were filmed) to explore, in the safe hands of an expert oarsman or woman, plus bird spotting galore, and snorkelling to see the many tropical fish close to shore.

The kitchen-table chocolate ‘factory’ at Pointe Baptiste is certainly worth visiting, both to buy dark chocolate to take home as gifts as well as to see the entire process underway, from the cacao fruit being picked from the trees, to roasting the beans, to tasting the finished product – all while enjoying stunning sea views.

A restored garrison building, complete with cannons, sits just above Prince Rupert Bay, and is also worth a visit. A hire care is recommended, as is use of Google Maps, as road signs are in short supply on Dominica once you leave the main road that encircles the island. Alternatively, if you prefer not to drive, there are plentiful taxis and minibuses with driver guides which can be booked.

Rustic local spas on the island make full use of both the geothermally heated water (available across a range of temperatures) and of the volcanic mud, which is deemed to be very good for the skin. There are yoga options galore, and a visit to the Kalinago territory is a must ; buy their superb basket ware, arts and crafts, and book a lunch there for the freshest of tasty, home-grown salads and vegetables. The Kalinago people rely on tourism to help them to feed and clothe their children – and you’ll enjoy a tour of their territory, with its glorious Atlantic Ocean views, while learning about the herbs and other plants that they grow for medicinal purposes, as well as to put food on their plates. They build their sea-going canoes by hollowing out entire tree trunks, and their long house is built to withstand hurricanes.

There are also lovely tropical gardens, and orchards, to explore on the island – with an expert guide - at a more relaxed pace if wished, perhaps tasting some of the tropical fruit and its juices afterwards.

ACCOMMODATION

 The cottages at Citrus Creek, are of varying sizes, dotted across the large site. Many are near to the river – perfect for river bathing in ponds adjacent to the river itself.

Villa YlangYlang - sleeps up to 4 adults and 3 children in two bedrooms (1,500 sq ft).

• Set within mature gardens and furnished with red cedar furniture, this is a riverside villa set in half an acre of land, with direct access to the river and its many pools. Sits directly in front of the Taberi river.
• Construction : Stone and wood.
• Maximum number of guests : 4 adults in 2 bedrooms plus 3 children (1 bed in the hall, and 2 on the mezzanine/attic floor – ladder access).
• Number of bathrooms: 2 bathrooms with shower and one guest WC with hand basin.
• Bedrooms: 2 with queen-size beds, plus a 3-couch upstairs attic for children (via a ladder, so unsuitable for children under 7).
• Bathrooms: 2 ensuite bathrooms (one with each bedroom) with shower, WC and hand basin. Solar-powered hot water heater.
• Kitchen: Fully equipped with oven, fridge, Espresso machine and kitchenware.
• View: River and gardens
• Surroundings: Set in a landscaped garden, with a riverside chill-out shaded area.
• Additional Features: freezer, direct river access, wireless Internet.

Guava-Cherry Cottage - sleeps 2 in one bedroom (650 sq ft).Set within a half-acre food forest, with direct access (ie in front of) to the Taberi river, this cottage is perfect for a couple.

• Construction: Stone and wood; a one-bedroomed cottage, facing the river, with views over the river and gardens.
• Maximum number of guests: 2
• Number of bedrooms: 1 (queen-sized bed)
• Number of bathrooms: 1 (large shower, WC, hand basin and solar hot water heater)
• Master bedroom (queen-sized bed only) with ensuite bathroom, both with louvres for natural ventilation
• Large, decked veranda overlooking the river, incorporating a living/dining space and a fully-equipped kitchen (under the outside veranda) with oven, fridge, Espresso machine and kitchenware, plus a dining table)
• Direct access to the river pools, and landscaped gardens.
• View : River and gardens
• Surroundings : Set in a landscaped garden with a riverside chill-out area.
• Additional Features: Nice river pool in front of the cottage. Wireless internet. 

Mango Signature Cottage - Sleeps 2 adults and 2 children – 800 sq ft (on 14,000 sq ft riverside plot) – but perfect for one couple

• Construction: stone and wood – unique design.
• Built in 2011, the cottage is surrounded by huge old mango trees and enjoys direct access to the Taberi river.
• This was the first luxurious cottage built at Citrus Creek Plantation.
• Large veranda with hammock and small outside kitchen (not suitable for extensive cooking).
• Living room in front of the river.
• One comfortable bedroom inside,
• One bathroom.
• Small, outside kitchenette; not suitable for extensive cooking. Stove, microwave oven, fridge, kitchenware, dining table seating 4 people.
• A truly comfortable, spacious escape.
• Additional guests (children, or parents) can sleep inside or outside under the veranda.
• Nice, signature architectural design, mixing large stone walls and wooden ceilings.
• Wireless Internet.
• Beds : 1 Queen size, plus 2 bunk beds, with the option to be set outside, under the veranda. If inside, all are in the same room. Perfect cottage for one couple.
• Bathroom : Located inside, with shower, WC, hand basin. Solar heated water.
• View : River and gardens.
• Surroundings : Located directly along the Taberi river and set within the gardens, this cottage is 200 yards from Riverside Café and Citrus Creek Plantation’s main office and front desk.

Banyan Stone Tree House – 650 sq feet. Built in 2014.

• Sleeps 2 adults + 1 child in same room (one bedroom).
• One bathroom, plus outside tree shower.
• A stone cottage built around (not “in”) a huge, magical Banyan tree.
• Very private, exclusive.
• Great use of local red cedar wood.
• Well ventilated, with window shutters, and cosy.
• The cottage nestles on the ridge; you’ll enjoy a delicious feeling of being alone in the jungle.
• Nice elevated ocean views.
• No neighbours; no noise.
• Three acres of private food forest, with many cacao trees.
• Perfect for those with an adventurous spirit.
• Quality design, and stone and wood construction; built around a huge tree.
• Red cedar furniture.
• BBQ/fire pit area.
• Wireless internet.
• No neighbours; very private.
• Perfect for those with an adventurous spirit.
• Bedroom: 1 queen size bed and 1 sofa in the same room
• Bathroom: Inside bathroom with WC, hand basin. Solar hot water heater. Outside shower in the roots of the Banyan tree.
• Kitchen : Located outside, fully equipped with oven, fridge, Espresso machine and kitchenware,
• View : Atlantic Ocean, mountains, plantation.
• Surroundings : Forested coconut ridge and only 100 yards from Riverside Café and Citrus Creek Plantation’s main office and front desk.
• Additional Features: Separate car access and stone staircase leading to the plantation below. There are many steps due to the property being so remote!

Kashima Wooden Bungalow - Sleeps 4 – 500 sq feet

• Kashima is a local hardwood bungalow, tastefully designed. The space is large enough for four people, with a downstairs master bedroom with queen size bed, and an attic above the bedroom with 2 single beds. There is a wide kitchen/dining room facing the gardens, plus a large gazebo to chill out in front of the river.
• You feel that you are in an artist’s home . Colours are bright, there are many decorative details - driftwood, paintings, etc. - even the overall plan was created by an artist.
• Built in 2016, using local wood, the bungalow is alongside-and overlooks - the Taberi river, with direct access and a riverside Gazebo to chill out and socialise with the Vanil Vaness stone loft guests, next door.
• This is a basic rustic wooden bungalow with plenty of space.
• The bungalow measures: 500 sq ft , sleeping 2 persons in the bedroom and 2 in the attic. The bathroom with a shower is outside the main bungalow.
• A very unique “wood” ambiance. Rustic yet comfortable. Ideal for a family with parents sleeping downstairs and children upstairs in the attic bedroom. Plenty of space outside. Barbecue / Fire pit area, wireless Internet.
• Set just above the river.
• Structure and Location: Wooden bungalow. Ventilated. Cosy.
• Bedroom: 1 queen size bed downstairs + Upstairs attic 2 single beds
• Bathroom : Outside bathroom with shower, toilet, wash basin. Solar hot water heater.
• Kitchen : Located outside, equipped with Cooker, mini oven, fridge, dining table and kitchenware
• View : Gardens, river.
• Surroundings : Private garden. River access.

Vanil Vaness Stone Loft - Sleeps up to 7

• Both Vanil Vaness loft and Kashima wooden bungalow are part of Tana the artist’s world. They belong to Tana, a swiss artist lady living in Switzerland. She has decorated her cottages to her taste. However both Vanil Vaness and Kashima Wooden |Bungalow are managed by the Citrus Creek Plantation Estate.
• Vanil Vaness is an upstairs, large loft, built in stone and decorated with stone, mosaic, driftwood… with taste by Tana . You “feel” you are in an artist’s home . Colors are bright, decoration details, mosaic and paintings, even the overall plan comes from an artist.
Tana, when in residence, lives downstairs, in what is called “Avocado island” . Kashima is next door. All are alongside the Taberi river, with direct access and a riverside Gazebo to chill out and socialise with her and Kashima guests .
• The property measures 1,800 sqft. 2 bedrooms with King size stone beds + 1 bedroom with 2 stone sofa beds (single) + 1 more stone sofa bed
• 2 bathrooms with shower , kitchen , Large local hardwood “family and friends” dining area . Stone walls. Well ventilated.
• A very unique “stone” ambiance. Rustic and comfortable. Ideal for a family with children or many friends. Very spacious . Wireless Internet via Satellite
• The property is not in front of the river but just above.
• Structure and Location: Elevated above ground . Ventilated. Cosy.
• 2 Bedrooms: King size beds
• + 1 bedroom with 2 single sofa (stone) beds + 1 more
• Bathroom : 1 full with a toilet, 1 shower/wash basin, 1 separate toilet
• Kitchen : equipped with Stove,Fridge, dining table and Kitchenware,
• View : Gardens, river.
• Surroundings : Additional riverside gazebo with dining area and barbecue

FACILITIES

• The Riverside Cafe is open for dinner (not lunch). The food is local with a French touch. The menu includes a variety of soups, salads, crepes, fish, smoked marlin, chicken and beef, pies, chocolate cake and homemade ice creams. Garden products are used as much as possible, accompanied by French wines and Caribbean rums.
• Day Tours on request and payable locally for those not wishing to hire a car.

Ylang Ylang Riverside Villa

Sleeps up to 4 adults and 3 children in two bedrooms (1,500 sq ft). Bedrooms: 2 with queen-size beds, plus a 3-couch upstairs attic for children (via a ladder, so unsuitable for children under 7). Bathrooms: 2 ensuite bathrooms (one with each bedroom) with shower, WC and hand basin. Solar-powered hot water heater. Kitchen: Fully equipped with oven, fridge, Espresso machine and kitchenware. Set in a landscaped garden, with a riverside chill-out shaded area.

Vanil Vaness Stone Loft

Sleeps up to 7 people (1,800 sq ft). 2 bedrooms with King size stone beds plus 1 bedroom with 2 stone sofa beds (single) and 1 more stone sofa bed. 2 bathrooms with shower, kitchen, large local hardwood “family and friends” dining area . A very unique “stone” ambiance. Rustic and comfortable. Ideal for a family with children or many friends. Very spacious. Wireless Internet via Satellite.

Guava Cherry Cottage

Sleeps 2 in one bedroom (650 sq ft). Master bedroom (queen-sized bed only) with ensuite bathroom, both with louvres for natural ventilation. Large, decked veranda overlooking the river, incorporating a living/dining space and a fully-equipped kitchen (under the outside veranda) with oven, fridge, Espresso machine and kitchenware, plus a dining table). Direct access to the river pools, and landscaped gardens. Set in a landscaped garden with a riverside chill-out area. Wireless internet.

Banyan Stone Tree House

Sleeps 2 adults + 1 child in same room (one bedroom) (650 sq ft). Bedroom: 1 queen size bed and 1 sofa in the same room. Bathroom: Inside bathroom with WC, hand basin. Solar hot water heater. Outside shower in the roots of the Banyan tree. Kitchen - located outside, fully equipped with oven, fridge, Espresso machine and kitchenware. Only 100 yards from the Riverside Café and Citrus Creek Plantation’s main office and front desk. Separate car access and stone staircase leading to the plantation below. There are many steps due to the property being so remote!

Kashima Wooden Bungalow

Sleeps 4. (500 sq ft). Sleeping 2 persons in the bedroom and 2 in the attic. The bathroom with a shower is outside the main bungalow. A very unique “wood” ambiance. Rustic yet comfortable. Ideal for a family with parents sleeping downstairs and children upstairs in the attic bedroom. Plenty of space outside. Barbecue / Fire pit area, wireless Internet. Set just above the river.