Roseau, in the southwest of Dominica, is the island’s capital, and also its most important port. It is built on the site of the ancient Kalinago Indian village of Siri. This is the largest town/city on Dominica, with a population of around 15,000.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, on-going conflicts between the French and the British centred around Roseau, which now showcases the influence of both cultures in its predominantly French architecture. The Roseau river flows into the Caribbean Sea and its valley straddles the town. Morne (meaning a hill) Bruce, which is located behind the town’s botanical gardens, affords panoramic views over the town and the sea.
One could not call Roseau a particularly attractive capital - the prettier, older buildings are disappearing, and being replaced by modern equivalents. Roseau is in the process of change. In many ways, the town resembles a thriving market and feels somewhat chaotic, but it is small enough to be explored on foot. Take care to avoid the countless market stalls, and the open rain gutters, and accept that there are few proper pavements. Take time to notice the older colonial buildings, with their louvres and verandas. Navigating the town by car needs patience and care!
The oldest part of the town is around Old Market Square, which was formerly the original slave market. The old post office building is now the visitor information centre, and the Dominica Museum, with a collection of exhibits tracing the island’s history. The bustling New Market on the riverbank, with its array of tropical fruits, vegetables and herbs, is worth visiting, especially on a Saturday morning. There are many places to eat and drink, including Creole, Caribbean and international dining.
Roseau is, of course, the main cruise port on the island, so be prepared to see these enormous ships berthed alongside the town. Cruise, whatever you think of it, is a growing business, and destinations will have to learn how to control the industry and decide whether it is to their economic benefit. It seems that most cruise passengers stay onboard. As the roads on Dominica are difficult to negotiate in large coaches, groups from the cruise ships are limited to small minibus type vehicles. These small groups generally leave the various sites by the afternoon. Cruise ships generally arrive between November and April and stay for just one night, but Dominica never feels crowded as its attractions tend to be scattered around the island. May and June, when the cruise season is over, are perhaps good times to visit.
Roseau is the base from which to visit the major attractions of the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here the tropical, forested peaks rise to over 4,000 feet, with many rivers and waterfalls to view. Trafalgar Falls, Titou Gorge Falls, Middleham Falls, the Boiling and freshwater lakes, and the Valley of Desolation, are all in this area. Here are also some of the best of the main 30 spectacular hiking trails that criss-cross the island. These range from easy to very difficult and challenging.
