Crete’s south coast has a different feel to the north. Lapped by the waters of the Libyan Sea, there are no large towns here and its predominantly lazy air is enhanced by the winds from north Africa. The south east is flatter and largely agricultural. Head further west and the mountains loom close to the shoreline. The rugged terrain - home to gorges (famous Samaria is far from alone), remote chapels and mountain goats - means that the road stops at Sfakia and onward journeys are best done by ferry.
Paleochora • Loutro • Plakias • Agia Galini • Ierapetra
Transfer time from Chania Airport: Paleochora 90 mins., Loutro 2 hrs incl boat, Plakias 100 mins., Agia Galini 75 mins (from Heraklion Airport) or 2 hrs (from Chania).
The spectacular south-west coast encapsulates the best of Crete – dizzy mountain scenery, a sparkling sea and some fine beaches. In fact a winding drive through the mountains is the only way in to Paleochora other than by sea.
There are plenty of restaurants and cafés above the sea or in the main street. In the summer evenings there is a positively cosmopolitan atmosphere, as both roads are sealed to traffic.
The main beach is of fine golden sand and stretches for nearly a kilometre – it affords superb swimming. Inland and the E4 coastal path offers wonderful hiking – try Agia Irini gorge as an alternative to popular Samaria. Ferries run via Sougia (another gorge here) to the foot of Samaria and from here on to Loutro. Boat trips operate to remote Elafonissi island, or simply for spotting dolphins. During high summer Paleochora can be windy. In the early season, there is the bonus of countless wild flowers up in the hills.
Unrealistically pretty and quite tiny (pop. 100!), you can only reach Loutro on foot or by boat – there are no roads and no cars! Guarded by steep mountains, some dozen waterfront restaurants serve an amazing variety of dishes.
Canoes can be rented to explore nearby sea caves and beaches, and a small boat runs to others. This is superb walking country and the hotel is happy to give further information.
In recent years Loutro has become a popular destination for the Greeks and, although accommodation is still limited, can be busy, especially at weekends and in the high season. Visit off-season if you can.
Twin-centre holidays: South Crete can be combined with any other area on the island. However we think that Paleochora and Loutro make an excellent two-centre pairing. The transfer between the two is a scenic cruise along the dramatic south-western coastline, a total of c 2½ hours sailing time on the ferries. However you need to change boats at Roumeli at the foot of the Samaria Gorge.
2024 ferry schedule
- Dep Paleochora 08.30 arr Roumeli 10.00
- Dep Roumeli 11.30 arr Loutro 12.10
Please note that the reverse trip Loutro to Paleo took most of the day, so we recommend Paleo as the first centre. If you do have time to kill at Roumeli you can have lunch and a swim, and even walk a little up the gorge (tavernas will keep your luggage).
Plakias is a small resort village set on a crescent bay with a very long beach. A not-too-busy resort surrounded by mountains with beachfront cafes and tavernas. Villages to visit and walks to be hiked, Preveli Monastery is nearby as are a number of remote and beautiful beaches..
Agia Galini is a pretty fishing village in the Rethymnon region. Galini still retains an authentic charm combining mountains and sea. Discover nearby beaches by car or boat and simply relax.
Ierapetra is the most substantial town on the south coast and was an important city in Hellenistic times, set on the beach of Ierapetra Bay in the south east. Swim from nearby excellent, long sandy beaches and take a boat trip across to uninhabited Chrissi Island. A good touring base.
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