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Ever since we introduced Finland to our Nordic portfolio, I have wanted to take the overnight sleeper train from Helsinki to Lapland. The Arctic north is a land that calls for you to slow down, and all too often I have arrived at destinations feeling fraught from travel, still carrying the invisible baggage of everyday life.
The thought of taking time to travel - watching the landscape gradually change outside the window and arriving as dawn breaks - felt wholly appropriate, and destined to give me the space to unwind and clear my head.
I am happy to report that the experience did not disappoint. In fact, travelling north on the Santa Claus Express by VR turned out to be one of the most relaxing and rewarding ways to reach the Arctic Circle.
The Santa Claus Express is VR’s overnight sleeper train service linking southern Finland with Lapland, covering close to 880 kilometres while passengers sleep.
The journey from Helsinki to Rovaniemi takes around 12 hours, departing in the evening and arriving early the following morning. Trains typically depart Helsinki in the early evening or late evening, allowing travellers to choose between an earlier night onboard or a later departure after dinner in the city. My train departed 19:29 arriving into Rovaniemi at 07:20. The later departure was at 23:13 arriving into Rovaniemi at 10:59.
Along the way, the train makes several scheduled stops including Tampere, Oulu and Kemi, before continuing north into Lapland.
By comparison, daytime trains cover the same distance in around 8–9 hours, but travelling overnight allows you to save a hotel night and arrive rested, with a full day ahead.
The city of Helsinki, set on the shores of the Baltic Sea, is a fascinating blend of history and modernity; art and nature; design, dining and wellness. With most major sights located within a 30-minute walk, it is a compact and rewarding capital to explore. Architecturally, Helsinki reflects its position on the cultural border between east and west, with elegant neoclassical buildings sitting alongside striking modern design.
Helsinki Central Station, completed in 1919, is an impressive Art Nouveau building and the heart of the city’s rail network. With its grand façade and iconic statues, it feels like a fitting departure point for a journey north.
One very practical detail worth knowing is that the station has luggage lockers for rent, including larger lockers suitable for suitcases and winter bags. This made it easy to leave my luggage securely and enjoy a relaxed meal nearby before boarding.
Boarding typically begins around 30 minutes before departure. Your ticket clearly shows your coach and cabin number, and - much like finding your seat on a UK train - you simply locate the corresponding coach number on the train door.
Clear signage inside the train directs you to your cabin, which will be either on the ground floor or upper deck of the double-decker carriage.
A key card to your cabin is left in the door, which is unlocked on arrival. Inside you will also find an additional key card, and if you are not in an ensuite cabin, a separate card for the shared shower facilities. Once inside it is easy to settle in and make yourself comfortable.
There are two main cabin categories on the Santa Claus Express. On the ground floor are the standard sleeper cabins without ensuite facilities (3.3m2), while the upper deck features superior cabins with private toilet and shower (4.2m2). All are sold for private use, therefore single passengers are not required to share with other travellers.
Both categories are comfortable, clean and thoughtfully designed.
Inside my cabin I found:
In ensuite cabins (shower and toilet), towels and basic toiletries are provided.
The overall feel is calm and functional, and the cabins are well insulated, making them surprisingly quiet through the night. For light sleepers, I would recommend travelling with ear plugs.
You can also select an adjoining downstairs cabins (2 + 2 persons) with a partition that can be opened.
Once all passengers were onboard, an announcement was made advising travellers to prepare their tickets. Tickets must be validated using the QR code, either via the VR app or on a printed ticket.
Shortly after departure, the conductor came through the carriage and scanned the QR code. The process took just a few seconds and was extremely efficient and stress-free. There was no need to leave the cabin, and everything was handled discreetly.
Before settling in for the night, I visited the restaurant car. The menu was simple but well suited to the journey, offering pasta, pizza and salads, along with a selection of snacks and drinks, including coffee, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages.
Passengers are not permitted to eat their own food in the restaurant car, but the atmosphere was relaxed and convivial, with a tangible sense of anticipation among travellers heading north.
Breakfast is also available, and this can be pre-ordered for delivery to your cabin if you so choose. Due to my early arrival in Rovaniemi, I opted to wait to take my breakfast in the city centre.
One of the highlights of the Santa Claus Express is going to sleep knowing you will wake up in a completely different part of the country. The train moved smoothly through the night, and I slept surprisingly well.
I woke as the train pulled into Rovaniemi, right on schedule. Stepping onto the platform and into the crisp Arctic air felt like the perfect start to a Lapland holiday.
Rovaniemi railway station also offers luggage lockers for rent. Taxis are available for hire on the station forecourt (confirm the fare before traveling) and a bus is waiting for passengers to transfer them to the city centre and Santa Claus village. Hotels in Rovaniemi and further afield will provide a transfer service from the train station.
The Santa Claus Express fits seamlessly into longer Nordic itineraries, including:
The map below shows online bus connections from Rovaniemi.
Travelling overnight from Helsinki to Lapland on the Santa Claus Express by VR was comfortable, practical and genuinely enjoyable. Whether you choose a standard sleeper or an ensuite cabin, it is a journey I would confidently recommend to anyone wanting to experience Finland in a more relaxed, immersive and thoughtful way.
The Nordics hold a special place in our hearts and one which continues to excite and inspire on every visit. Our destination specialists - who between them have travelled the length and breadth of Finland - are on hand to advise, inspire and plan your perfect break. Call us on 020 8568 4499 or reach out to us on Live Chat.
26th January 2026
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