Holidays to Central Portugal

To the east of the pilgrimage town of Fatima, for instance, stands the extraordinary Convento de Cristo, at Tomar.  Built in the 12th century as a monastic fortress against the Moors, it is both formidable and theatrical. The base of the Knights Templar in Portugal, its original church copies the Church of the Dome in Jerusalem. Despite the Templars falling out of favour with the Pope on account of their wealth and ambitions, they were protected here by King Dinis and under Henry the Navigator became the engine-room behind the Age of Exploration. Gargoyles, cloisters, Manueline embellishments, intricate stonework, exquisite tiling, and glorious views contribute to a unique building.

50 kms east of the Atlantic coast, surrounded by mountains, is the delightful hill-top town of Viseu, with its narrow streets, many churches, and splendid Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral dating from 830 A.D. The Cathedral square is one of the most impressive in the country. The Grao Vasco Museum houses the colourful works of the 16th century painter Vasco Fernandes.

Known as the “City of the Water”, Aveiro is crisscrossed by canals, which are used by the unique wooden boats called Moliceiro that originally transported “molico” (ria vegetation), goods and cattle.  Small of draught, with tall masts and helm, they are propelled at first by a long wooden pole. Their most distinctive feature is their wonderfully painted helms, shaped like half-moons. These are true folk art, and can be seen en masse during the Regatta that takes place between Torriero and Aveiro. A network of Buga bikes (which are free to use) provides another way to explore the Art Nouveau buildings and tiled houses of this busy port city.

Throughout the region, hidden villages nestle amidst the green hillsides. Each season has its own character, cold and wet in winter, very hot in summer. In spring, magnolias blossom and there are a multitude of majestic linden trees. To the east, the pine forests of Serra da Estrela are part of the highest mountain range in the country, laced with streams, waterfalls and lagoons, and rich in wildflowers and birdlife. Nearby, the medieval fortified towns of Almeida and Belmonte guard against the incursions of old Spain.

Easy to negotiate by car or train, Centro has a wealth of subtle attractions.