Until around twelve years ago, Split was mainly seen as an access point for the islands connected by numerous ferries and catamarans. Few visitors stayed there for more than a night or two at most and most who visited were on a day excursion from another holiday base. Suddenly that changed and nobody is quite sure why.
Whatever happened, Split is now a real favourite with visitors. People stay there longer, often making Split part of a two or three centre holiday and many are now even visiting in winter, combining Split with Zagreb or Rome in Italy with direct flights to and from both.
More hotels of various styles and categories have opened and many local people have projects underway to restore historic properties with a strong heritage focus for visitor accommodation.
The city authorities spent serious money on renovating and improving the beautiful, wide “Riva” (seafront promenade) made of local white stone. The residents of Split have always enjoyed coffee there, watching the world pass by and the ferries and catamarans coming and going. Now, visitors are there too. It is a lovely wide pedestrianised promenade dotted with cafes and tall palm trees. Some superb restaurants have opened, there are some eclectic bars including a cocktail bar, miraculously housed in part of the old city walls. In December, there’s even a Christmas market with seasonal, traditional stalls along the Riva.
The most famous aspect of Split are the ruins of Roman Emperor Diocletian’s Palace. Born at Salona, five kms inland, Diocletian chose Split as the location for his retirement home. Building started in 295AD and was completed in 305AD. Now, this is the core of Split old city which is located within the four walls of the palace, which has entrances on each side, north, south, east and west.
The palace’s southern wall is now part of the waterfront Riva (promenade) and many people enter by the Bronze Gate here. This gives access to the vaulted palace basement where goods used to be stored. Now there are stalls selling various gifts, artwork and souvenirs. Worth exploring this lower level and special exhibitions are sometimes held there.
Collectively, the ruins of Diocletian’s Palace, the city fortifications, historical royal residences were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979.
Today, the centre of Split is a wonder. Endless squares and piazzas, narrow streets, tiny palaces squashed into ridiculously small places, churches, chapels, shops, banks, restaurants, bars, in style from Roman – Venetian – Austrian – French – Italian – Yugoslav. They were all here.
Did you know?
- Split has one of the rare sandy beaches in Croatia, Bacvice beach is around 15 minutes walk from the Bronze Gate entrance to Diocletian’s Palace. Sunbeds, parasols for rent and a good selection of bars and bistros
- Hadjuk Split is one of the most famous football teams in Croatia, often at or near the top of the first league.
- Marijan Hill is a lovely green area of Split around a 15-20 minute walk from the old city. Often a cooler spot on hot days due to breezes. We feature the Hotel Cvita there.
- There are a few hotels located within the walks of Diocletian’s Palace-old city core including Hotel Peristil which we feature.
- The Peristil (square) entrance/exit to the lower level of the palace plays an important part in Split’s cultural scene with many events held there
- One of the most famous cafes in Split is ‘Luxor’ situated in Peristil, named after the marble sphinx and columns Diocletian brought back to Split from Egypt after his travels.
- The closest National Parks are Krka (55 minutes), Paklenica (1 hour 50), Plitvice Lakes (2 hours 20). Visit either on your own or by organised excursion. The excursion to Krka usually includes some time in the lovely seaside town of Sibenik.
- Trips are easy to Trogir (walled medieval city and also UNESCO heritage site), Solin (ex Salona), islands of Solta and Brac.
- (Only a small part of Salona has been excavated. A Christian necropolis, 5th century basilica, baths, aqueduct and a Roman amphitheatre built for 14,000 can be seen.)
- Longer day trip excursions include Dubrovnik and Mostar in Bosnia-Hercegovina (passport needed)
- Klis Fortress above Split was built by ancient Illyrian tribes, taken over and enlarged by the Romans and was a filming location in Game of Thrones.
