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On the equator 600 miles off the Ecuadorian coast, the Galapagos Islands are like nowhere else on earth. Remote, harsh and profoundly volcanic, their human habitation is a very recent phenomenon. It is wildlife rather than people that distinguish these isolated outposts and for good reason the islands – either explored on a cruise or land based – have been described as a living museum and showcase of evolution. Many visitors opt to include some relaxation time in the Galapagos.
It was in 1535 while en route to Peru that the Bishop of Panama – the first recorded visitor – inadvertently paused in the uninhabited Galapagos, his voyage stalled by a lack of wind and adverse currents. Within forty years they appeared on what is widely regarded as the world’s first atlas but it was a 17th-century English buccaneer who initiated systematic charts of the archipelago.
In the wake of pirates came fur seal hunters and particularly whalers, all of whom nearly decimated the huge resident tortoises. Charles Darwin, probably the Galapagos’s most celebrated visitor, arrived in 1835 shortly after newly-independent Ecuador claimed the islands. It was here during a five-week stay the young Darwin noted aspects of the islands’ geology and particularly their unique wildlife; ultimately these helped formulate his theories on evolution.
Today its nineteen odd islands plus assorted islets and rocky outcrops form one of the world’s largest marine reserves and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Here it’s not so much the diversity as the uniqueness of so much wildlife that draws and amazes visitors. The peculiar ecosystems and general isolation meant species adapted in unusual if not bizarre ways to survive and thrive.
So, for example, the iconic marine iguana is the world’s only seafaring lizard – it not only dives but breathes underwater. The flightless cormorant lost its ability to fly, probably because of a lack of predators; over a dozen species of finches developed varying beaks specific to their environment and needs. Giant tortoises, another iconic and endemic species, grew bigger and live longer than anywhere else. Only here do penguins live on the equator.
This rich flora and fauna is typically framed by spectacular land- and seascapes shaped by the islands’ volcanic origins and ongoing activity. Dark corrugated lava flows, statuesque rock pinnacles and giant part-submerged calderas alternate with powdery white-sand beaches, turquoise lagoons, desert-like scrub and, occasionally, lush humid uplands.
Unsurprisingly visiting this wonderland is tightly regulated. Land-based tours and excursions cannot quite match the variety and immersion of an inter-island cruise and many itineraries are designed to cater to specific interests.
Galapagos holidays at a glance
There are no direct flights from the UK to Ecuador. The European airlines flying to Quito and Guayaquil are Iberia from London Heathrow (via Madrid) and KLM from London Heathrow and regional airports (via Amsterdam). Other options from London airports include LATAM Airlines and Air Europa via Madrid to Guayaquil; and Avianca to Quito and Guayaquil via Bogota. Also there are flights from London Heathrow to Quito and Guayaquil via Miami on American Airlines. Any flights via the US require an ESTA application. Regional departures include Edinburgh, Glasgow, Manchester, Newcastle and Birmingham.
Flights to the Galapagos Islands only operate from Quito and Guayaquil. Please note there is a 1 hour time difference between the Ecuador mainland and Galapagos.
January - The hot / rainy season becomes established. Air and water temperatures rise. ‘Spring’ arrives with the rain and green shoots appear even in arid areas. Land birds nest, land (Isabela)and marine (Espanola) iguana mating season starts. Green turtles start arriving to lay eggs.
February - Flamingos start nesting on Floreana, marine iguanas nest on Santa Cruz and Bahama pintail ducks start breeding. Sperm whales and occasionally blue whales may be seen off the west coasts of Isabela and Fernandina.
March - Hot and humid. Marine iguanas nest on Fernandina. Frigate bird mating season starts. Late in the month Waved Albatross arrive on Espanola.
April - Large numbers of Waved Albatross arrive on Espanola and start their noisy courtship ritual. Green turtle and land iguana eggs start to hatch. The last giant tortoises hatch.
May - Waved Albatross on Espanola start laying their eggs. Sea turtles hatching on Espanola, Floreana and Santiago, and marine iguanas hatching on Santa Cruz. Galápagos penguins active around Bartholome. The sea lion and fur seals mating season starts, running from May to December. As there is a 12 month gestation newborn pups also arrive during this period.
June - The garua season starts. The air and sea temperatures start to cool, south-east trade winds return and currents become a bit stronger. The nesting season of the giant tortoises starts. Humpback whales may be seen, as may migrant birds flying north.
July - Breeding season for blue footed boobies on Espanola as albatross fledglings start to be born. Flightless cormorants start courtship rituals on Fernandina. Whales and dolphins may be observed of the west coast of Isabela.
August - Oceans can be choppy. Migrant shore birds start to arrive. Mating season for Galápagos Hawks on Espanola and Santiago.
September - Air and sea temperatures at their lowest. Galápagos Penguins breeding especially around Bartholome although can occur all year. Manta Rays seen off east coast of Isabela. Height of the sea lion mating season, with rival males fighting for control of harems.
October - Weather can be mixed. Giant tortoises continue to lay eggs. Blue footed boobie chicks can be seen on Espanola and Isabela.
November - Water and air temperature begins to rise and the winds decrease. Can be some jellyfish. Good visibility for snorkelling – can be especially fun with sea lion pups.
December - Hot / rainy season begins. Air and sea temperatures continue to rise. The mist clears. Islands begin to green over as the rain falls. Green sea turtles start to mate. Giant tortoise eggs begin to hatch.
December - May (hot/wet season)
June - November (overcast/stiff breeze season)
In order to conserve and protect the wildlife and environment of the Galápagos Islands, the number of visitors is controlled by the Galápagos National Park Authority. Here's a selection of some of the islands and what you might expect to see
Santa Cruz
The most populated island, the main town of Puerto Ayora is the busiest hub in the Galapagos. A charming and well-resourced port in its own right with a number of hotels and restaurants, it has spectacular crescent beaches and excellent opportunities for snorkelling, kayaking and scubadiving. It is the base for further cruises and walking tours. The Charles Darwin Research Station is committed to preserving the unique environment and is a centre for the breeding of turtles.
Española
The oldest of the islands (3.4 million years) Espanola has no fresh water source and is uninhabitable by humans – but it’s a haven for sea birds. There is a large waved albatross community at Punta Suarez, and at Port Gardner you will encounter blue and maskedfooted boobies and bright red marine iguanas. Sea lion colonies can be seen, along with finches, swallowtailed gulls and the Galápagos hawk.
San Cristobal
The sleepy town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is home to the Interpretation Centre that provides an excellent history and explanation of the islands. At Punta Pitt you will find red, blue and masked-footed boobies, and at La Galapaguera both wild tortoises and others in a Reserve - necessary to protect them from wild goats and rats (introduced unfortunately by earlier travellers). The second main airport is on this island, and is another starting point for cruises.
Santa Fé
A tiny island 25 km from Santa Cruz, Santa Fé has one of the most beautiful bays in the Galapagos. The water is crystal clear and ideal for snorkelling, and is a wonderful place to swim with sea-lions. The Santa Fe iguana is unique to the island, and can be seen among the Prickly Pear cactus that sometimes grow to a height of 10m.
Isabela
The largest island made up of 6 fused volcanoes, Isabela is shaped like a sea-horse and is one of the youngest islands, which gives it a distinctive ecosystem. There are more wild tortoises here than anywhere else, because the Alceda tortoises like to wallow in the mud of the volcanic craters to protect them from mosquitoes and tics. Around Elizabeth Bay, penguins, turtles, Darwin’s finches and reef sharks abound, and between June and September Isabela is the best place to see passing whales.
Santiago
Long a favourite spot for pirates and whalers, and more recently given over to an attempt at salt-mining, Santiago is now uninhabited. Fascinating for its lava formations at Sullivan Bay, Santiago is a home for pink flamingos, fur seals and sea-lions, marine iguanas and Sally Lightfoot crabs.
Bartholomé
Despite being desolate with few plants, Bartolomé is probably the most photographed of all the islands. The wondrous lava formations with shades of red, orange, green and glistening black are a stunning sight, as is the view from the look-out summit at Pinnacle Rock (114 m). If you snorkel, Galapagos penguins are regular companions.
Floreana
Devil’s Crown is an almost completely submerged volcano that has become a haven for exotic birds and offers the most spectacular diving and snorkeling opportunities. Here you can swim among turtles, sea-lions, white-tipped sharks, amberjacks and king angel fish whilst seeing the most vibrantly-coloured coral. And don’t leave without following in the footsteps of pirates and buccaneers and deposit a letter in the wooden post barrel!
For more information and inspiration on the Galapagos, read our blog.
GMT - 7 hours
US Dollar
Spanish
17 hours 30 minutes (London to Quito via Amsterdam - 14 hours 45min. Quito to Galapagos 2 hours 45min)
Average rainfall
The Galapagos Islands
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Blue-footed booby
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Green turtle
Sail around the Galapagos Islands
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Sally lightfoot crab
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Giant tortoise, The Galapagos Islands
Blue-footed booby, The Galapagos Islands
The Galapagos Hawks
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