Holidays to North West Crete

Kalives has retained its relaxed village atmosphere and boasts two long sandy beaches, one to either side. Centred around a tree-shaded square, housing a couple of cafés and the handsome church, Kalives has a good choice of authentic local tavernas and small shops which cater for most needs. 

Life in the thriving small resort of Almirida revolves around the beach and there are more than a dozen tavernas now here. The area has developed in recent years and the village now has several café-bars, a bakery and a pair of well stocked mini-markets.  Almirida now has just the right balance between lazy days on the long curve of sandy beach - there are plenty of sunbeds and beach cafés as well as non-motorised water sports (windsurf, kayak, paddleboard, pedalo) - and a vibrant but not OTT evening atmosphere. For a change of scene why not walk up the hill to the traditional village of Plaka (20 mins.) and enjoy dinner in the square in one of the several fine local tavernas here?

From both Almirida and Kalives small motorboats can be rented (tuition given, no licence required - the best way to explore Souda Bay), bicycles can be hired, excursions operate (from early May), there is a bus to Chania and taxis are available.

The small town of Kastelli (also called Kissamos) is the gateway to Crete's wild west. Some 40 kms west of Chania, linked by a fast highway, Kastelli's atmosphere remains primarily that of a working Greek market town where the priorities remain agriculture (good wine from this area) and fishing rather than tourism. Hotels there are but tourism is generally low key, attracting those looking for a peaceful break with miles of unspoiled countryside and uncrowded beaches (mainly pebble) close to hand. The area is therefore the perfect base for our painting and walking holidays that operate from the seaside hamlet of Nopigia 6 kms to the east of Kastelli, and linked by a good bus service.

Lying at the centre of a wide bay formed by the rocky arms of two wild peninsulas called Gramvousa and Rodopou (boat trips run regularly to the former), Kastelli has good facilities and a small archaeological museum.

One of Crete's most beautiful beaches, Falasarna, lies just a half hour drive away. Being on the west coast and looking out over open sea, the sunsets here can be spectacular.  Further south is equally lovely Elafonisi, with its coral sands and islet you can wade to via a sandbank. With a car, a wonderfully scenic circuit - out via the coast road and back through the mountains via villages and a gorge - makes a great day out, although the twisting narrow roads are not for nervous drivers or those with a fear of heights!

Historic Rethymnon is the only town on the island which can rival Chania in terms of atmosphere and character. In many ways a more compact version - the old harbour is a fraction of the size of Chania's (but none the worse for that) - the Venetian/Turkish old town behind is equally maze-like and enchanting. Rethymnon also has a sandy beach in town itself, below the palm-fringed promenade, although this gets busy and we prefer to walk the short distance beyond the harbour wall to the miles of sandy beach which lie beyond. The whole is dominated by a massive Venetian fortress above.

20 minutes drive beyond Rethymnon, the atmospheric village of Panormos has everything we look for – oodles of laid back charm, two good sandy beaches, a photogenic harbour (with church above and tavernas to each side) and, above all, a true Greek village atmosphere. Yet, remarkably for such a pretty place, foreign tourism here is still low-key and there is only one hotel.

Panormos has everything close to hand, including some ten tavernas and a good selection of local shops in the narrow streets leading down to the harbour and beach. A fun trip is the ‘road-train’ which runs to villages in the hills. For bright lights Rethymnon can be easily reached by the frequent local bus.