Holidays to Patmos

Patmos’ fame belies its size. This is where St John the Divine wrote the Book of Revelation, and the island hence receives many visitors, most of whom stay for only a few hours before returning to their cruise boat. That leaves the rest of this starkly beautiful island to those who, like us, prefer to fall under Patmos’ spell in its own time.

It is the most northerly island of the Dodecanese and one of the smallest, measuring little over 20 square miles. Its hilly interior and highly indented coastline, however, means there is plenty of scope for walking and independent exploration.

The attractive port of Skala is the best place to stay, as everything seems to start from here. Skala is a bustling, quite sophisticated little place, with elegant arcaded cafés (a legacy of the Italians, who were here until 1947), fine tavernas and some smart shops hidden in the narrow backstreets.

A surprisingly good bus service runs at regular intervals to beaches and villages north and south, and to Hora and the monastery above. Skala has sand of its own, and caiques leave the quay for other beaches, such as sandy Psili Ammos (only accessible by boat or on foot). Sea excursions operate ‘around the island’, as well as to nearby Arki and Lipsi.

High on the hill above Skala is the Monastery of St John, the white houses of Hora clustered below its imposing fortifications for protection. It is one of the magnificent sights of Greece. Founded in the 11th century, the monastery contains treasures second only to Athos. The best way to visit is by a 40 minute walk up the shaded cobbled path from Skala, via the Cave of the Apocalypse where St John received the Word of God. Hora is quite beautiful, with its old mansions and flower-filled courtyards, and has some good restaurants. The views from the square over Patmos and the Aegean are stunning.