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A little ‘forward’ to explain the prevailing architecture of the Mani. In the rugged landscape of the Mani Peninsula, history weaves a tale of feudal intricacies and fierce loyalties. By the 14th century, this remote part of Greece had evolved into a complex feudal society marked by intense blood feuds among families and neighbors. The precipitous decline of the Byzantine Empire, followed by its eventual collapse, brought waves of refugees to Mani. These refugees, including remnants of Byzantine aristocracy from entities like the Despotate of the Morea, found refuge in Mani's austere terrain. They came to be known as the Nyklians, a new class of aristocrats who exerted significant influence in the region. As they settled, the Nyklians and the native clans established strongholds within tightly-knit villages, fortifying their positions against the backdrop of Mani's challenging, rocky soil which scarcely supported agriculture. This scarcity of resources fueled continuous conflicts among the clans for over five centuries, as they vied for land, power, and prestige in an unforgiving landscape that demanded as much resilience from its inhabitants as it did from its rulers.
It is impossible to get lost as there is only one road running the entire length of the Mani, but it is very easy to get lost in the majestic scenery. The journey from Kalamata to the southern-most tip of the Mani, the southern-most tip of mainland Greece, is a journey through history and mythology. The road is mountainous in many parts, narrow in even more, but delightful in all.
Julia Browne
Sunvil's local representative in the South Peloponnese
Kalamata, a city that beautifully marries its rich historical tapestry with modern vibrancy, offers a unique experience to its visitors and residents alike. Kalamata is not just known for its contemporary layout and thriving cafés and shops, but also for its deep historical roots that echo through the ages. The city's acropolis dates back to before the Trojan War, serving as a silent witness to the various epochs, including the Byzantine period and the Frankish occupation in the early 13th century. Notably, a church dedicated to the Theotokos (Virgin Mary) was established in the 6th century, housing an icon called ‘Kalomata’—meaning beautiful eyes—which eventually lent its name to the city itself. On the modern front, Kalamata bursts into colour and life with its annual flower festival in May, the revered silk-weaving industry under the castle's watchful eye, and the international dance festival held from July 17 to August 8 each year. Additionally, the city boasts an archaeological museum with an impressive collection of artifacts and a lively open-air market every Wednesday, offering a plethora of fresh produce and local goods. Kalamata truly is a city where history and modernity coexist harmoniously, inviting all who visit to explore its past and present wonders.
The Verga wall, located just seven kilometres east of Kalamata, stands as a historical testament to the turbulent past of the region. Erected swiftly by the Maniates in 1826 during a period of fierce conflict, this fortification was intended to block the advancing Turks. It was strategically built on the foundations of an ancient wall that had once served a similar defensive purpose. Stretching from the base of a steep mountain to the shores of the sea, the wall safeguarded what was considered the 'gate to the Mani'—the primary passageway between Kalamata and the rugged Mani peninsula. Today, only remnants of this once formidable barrier remain, including fragments of the wall itself and a solitary tower, serving as a poignant reminder of the region's resilient and embattled history.
Departing Kalamata, you are immediately greeted by the imposing presence of the Taygetos mountain range, an awe-inspiring natural fortress that dominates the landscape. Extending roughly 100 kilometres, this range is crowned by its highest summit, Mount Taygetos, also revered as Profitis Ilias—a name that nods to the biblical Prophet Elijah. Standing tall at 2,407 meters, this peak is believed to be the same Mount Talėton mentioned by Pausanias, the ancient geographer, in the 2nd century. The Taygetos mountains are lush with dense forests of Greek fir and black pine, adding to the range's majestic and untamed beauty. Additionally, the western slopes of Taygetos cradle the origins of the Viros Gorge. This gorge transforms seasonally, lying dry during the summer and flowing vigorously with snowmelt in the winter months, illustrating the dynamic and ever-changing nature of this spectacular region.
The strategic importance of fortifications in the Avia district of Mani, particularly the castle of Zarnata, underscores the region's vulnerability to invasions throughout history. Positioned on a hill between Kambos and Stavropigio, the castle of Zarnata is a relic of the late Byzantine period, reflecting a rich tapestry of historical shifts in occupancy and structural enhancements. Its significance was particularly highlighted during the Greek War of Independence, serving as a bastion against oppressors. Later, during the tumultuous times of the Greek Civil War from 1946 to 1950, the castle once again proved its strategic value as it became a refuge for the local populations of Malta and Stavropigio, sheltering them from the brutal skirmishes between communist guerrillas and Nationalist forces. This enduring legacy of the castle of Zarnata not only illustrates the cyclical nature of conflict in the region but also the enduring human need for sanctuary and defence in times of turmoil.
Continuing your journey through the scenic landscapes of the Peloponnese, the road from Kambos winds its way through the Taygetos foothills, unveiling breath taking vistas that stretch to Trachila. This route not only offers a glimpse of the shimmering coastline but also leads you through the charming village of Prosilio. Here, a detour marked towards Tseria, known as the 'balcony of Lefktro', presents an elevation of about 700 metres, providing awe-inspiring views over the Viros Gorge and the expansive Gulf of Messinia. Tseria itself is a quaint amalgamation of six settlements, each with its own unique character. Notably, the village of Zacharia, originally named Libochova, was renamed in the 1960s to honour the legendary Klephtic leader Zacharias. This area, rich in history and natural beauty, offers an authentic slice of Greek heritage, perfect for those seeking to explore beyond the typical tourist paths.
The picturesque village of Kardamili, nestled at the entrance of the Viros gorge, holds a rich tapestry of history and natural beauty. Originally known as Skardamoula, the area was famed for its abundant cardamom plants. A striking feature of this village is the 'family complex' in Old Kardamili, which exemplifies the architectural style of the 'Outer Mani' settlements. These complexes were not just homes but fortresses, walled and fortified to safeguard the extended family clans. They served both as protective sanctuaries and as power bases, reflecting the turbulent times and the community's need for security and resilience. This blend of natural spice cultivation and robust historical architecture makes Kardamyli a fascinating destination with layers of cultural heritage to explore.
Kardamili, a town steeped in mythological and historical significance, is intriguingly mentioned in Homer's Iliad as one of the seven cities that Agamemnon promised to Achilles. This offer was meant to coax Achilles back into the fray of the Trojan War after his withdrawal due to a dispute. This ancient town, not just a footnote in epic tales, also hosts sites of deep historical roots such as the purported tombs of the Dioscuri, Castor and Pollux, near Old Kardamyli. These tombs, while unassuming in appearance, link the town to a rich mythological past. Another notable site is the church of Agia Sofia, perched atop a hill, offering breathtaking panoramic views. The journey to this serene sanctuary is a vigorous 50-minute ascent from Old Kardamili, rewarding visitors with both spiritual and visual solace, encapsulating the enduring allure of Kardamili’s landscape and its woven tapestry of mythology and history.
Patrick Leigh Fermor, a renowned British travel writer, was not only celebrated for his literary contributions but also for his valour during WWII as part of the Greek Resistance. In recognition of his efforts, he was granted honorary citizenship of Kardamili, a village where his beloved house is situated near Kalamitsi beach. This house, a beacon of historical and cultural significance, is currently managed by the Benaki Museum. Those wishing to explore the interiors of Fermor's residence need to schedule an appointment in advance through the museum, with visits permitted only on Mondays during the summer at a fee of 5€. In a touching tribute to another literary giant, the ashes of Bruce Chatwin, author of ‘In Patagonia,’ were scattered at the quaint church of Agios Nikolaos in Exochori, further cementing the area's appeal to literary enthusiasts and travellers alike.
Stoupa, nestled 6km south of Kardamili along the picturesque southern coast of the Peloponnese, offers a delightful detour for those with time to explore. The main route brushes past the scenic beaches of Kalamitsi, Foneas, and Ta Delphinia, but an alternative path starting just outside Kardamili invites travelers on a more adventurous journey. This left turn off the main road meanders through the mountain villages of Proastio, Exochori, Saidona, Kastania—with its beautifully restored Dourakis Tower and lively annual chestnut festival in October—Pyrgos, and Neochori. Each village presents a unique charm and breathtaking views, culminating in the charming coastal village of Stoupa. This route not only enriches the travel experience with cultural insights and natural beauty but also connects visitors to the heart and soul of this enchanting region.
Stoupa presents a fascinating case of historical development shaped by conflict and gender dynamics. Historically, the threat of attacks by Turks and pirates made coastal living perilous, leading to sparse settlement near the sea until the post-Greek War of Independence era. It was only after this period that it became safer to inhabit these areas. During the land divisions in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a gendered distribution of property occurred. Men selected the hillside lands, which were abundant with olive groves, leaving women with what was then considered less desirable coastal plots. This historical allocation of land has had an unexpected modern outcome: many of the thriving tavernas and bars along the Stoupa seafront are now owned by women, turning what was once deemed less valuable into prosperous business ventures. This twist of fate highlights not only the resilience and entrepreneurial spirit of these women but also the changing perceptions of land value over time.
Agios Nikolaos, just 3km from Stoupa, offers a picturesque escape along the Greek coast, accessible both by a scenic drive and a beautiful cycle/walking path that hugs the seaside. This traditional fishing village, originally known as Selinitsa, holds deep historical roots, possibly named after the moon or the myth of Helen of Troy. Each morning, the village buzzes with activity as the local catch is freshly sold at the harbour. Not far from the village lies Pantazi Beach, offering sandy shores between Agios Nikolaos and Agios Dimitrios. The cultural highlight of the village is the Mani Pulse Festival, celebrated annually on the first weekend in September. This vibrant festival features exhibitions, music, dance, and a variety of activities that engage both children and adults, embodying the community spirit of Agios Nikolaos.
Agios Dimitrios, a quaint village nestled just 2km south of Agios Nikolaos, offers a rich tapestry of nature and mythology. Near its shores lies the small islet of Pefnos, famously home to a large, enigmatic egg. This islet holds a place in Greek mythology as the site where Zeus, transformed into a swan, appeared to Leda, the queen of Sparta. The area between Agios Dimitrios and Trachila also features the captivating Katafigio cave. This natural wonder stretches 834 meters in length and rises 12 metres high, adorned with stunning stalactites and stalagmites and complemented by a charming, naturally formed rock pool. This region, steeped in lore and natural beauty, offers a unique glimpse into both the mythical past and the breath taking landscapes of Greece.
The journey from Agios Dimitrios to Trachila along the coastal road is an enchanting 6 km trip that culminates at a quaint, remote village steeped in history and scenic beauty. Trachila, with its dramatic past of resurrection post the bombardment by the Turkish-Egyptian fleet in 1826, offers a narrative as captivating as its landscapes. For the adventurous, a challenging coastal footpath leads from Trachila to Chotasia, and further on to a remote bakery—famed for its exceptional offerings, despite its isolation. This route, however, is not for everyone; it's a rigorous trek, unsuitable for casual attire like flip-flops. For those up to the challenge, the rewards are breath taking views and a slice of rural serenity that is hard to find elsewhere.
Trachila, with its idyllic beaches and vibrant turquoise waters, offers more than just scenic beauty. A unique local product to explore here is the sea salt, traditionally harvested by local women from the natural salt pans. Venturing from Trachila requires a journey back to Pantazi Beach before connecting with the main road leading to Cape Tainaron. This route not only reconnects you with major paths but also offers a picturesque drive through several charming villages including Pigi, Platsa, Nomitsi, Thalames, Platanos, and Langada. Each of these villages boasts distinctive characteristics, featuring traditional stone houses and historic Byzantine churches, enriching your travel experience with cultural depth and architectural heritage. This journey through the heart of the region is a perfect blend of natural beauty and cultural exploration.
Thalames, a village steeped in history and charm, stands as a jewel among the traditional Greek settlements. Dating back to the era of Ancient Sparta, Thalames once hosted an oracle dedicated to Pasiphaë, a figure intertwined with Cretan and Spartan mythology. This village, with its quaint cobbled streets and meticulously preserved stone buildings, offers a vivid glimpse into the past, making it feel almost as if time has stood still. The local Folklore and Historical Museum adds to this ambiance, showcasing an array of tools, weapons, engravings, and documents that narrate the village's rich history. Notably, in 1316, the Byzantine emperors awarded Thalames to the renowned hagiographer (a writer who writes biographies of saints and venerated persons) Ioannis Koutifaris, whose influence led to the village being a centre for religious art and learning. The architectural heritage is further highlighted by the elegant double-arched fountain built in 1714, and the Byzantine churches of Agios Vasilis and Profitis Ilias, along with the historic towers of Derezeas and Stavrianeas, all contribute to the enchantment that Thalames offers to both historians and visitors alike.
Oitylo, steeped in history, is a testament to the rich tapestry of Greek heritage. This venerable town on the Mani Peninsula boasts a lineage that traces back to ancient times, even earning a mention in Homer's Iliad as part of the realm of Menelaus. A journey from Oitylo to the coastal area of Nea Oitylo offers more than scenic beauty; it's a passage through time. To the left, the imposing Kelefa Castle stands as a silent sentinel atop the southernmost reaches of the Taygetos mountain range. This castle, a relic of strategic military importance, overlooks the landscape, offering a tangible connection to the area's storied past and a breath taking view that has watched over the region for centuries.
Nea Oitylo, with its sandy beach and shallow waters, offers a pleasant but not exceptional coastal experience. In contrast, the nearby village of Limeni, just south of Nea Oitylo, presents a more captivating charm. This beautifully restored village is a true gem along the water's edge, boasting several excellent tavernas where visitors can dine with stunning views of the sea, often accompanied by the graceful presence of sea turtles swimming in the bay. The narrow, quaint streets of Limeni, while picturesque, make driving a challenge; it’s advisable to park outside the village and explore on foot. Adding to its allure, Limeni serves as the port of Areopoli and is home to the restored tower of Petrobey Mavromichailis, a museum dedicated to the hero of the Greek War of Independence, enriching the cultural experience of this scenic location.
The Diros Caves, nestled just south of Areopoli, offer a mesmerising peek into both natural and human history. The largest and most captivating of these, the Vlychada Cave, invites visitors on a gondola-like boat journey through its expansive water-filled passages. This cave, whose explored parts stretch over 14 kilometres, showcases a breath taking array of white stalactites and stalagmites that have been sculpting the cave's interior for hundreds of thousands of years, dating back to when the sea level was significantly lower. Remarkably, at depths of up to 71 meters, explorers have discovered stalactites along with fossilized remains of hippos, panthers, and lions, pointing to a richly diverse ancient ecosystem. Additionally, human connections to the cave are evidenced by pottery fragments found at its natural entrance, suggesting early human activity. Further insights into the cave's historical significance are provided by the Diros Neolithic Museum, located on-site, which displays a range of anthropological artifacts from the Vlychada, Alepotrypa, and Katafygi caves, offering a unique window into the lives of its prehistoric inhabitants.
Nestled on the southern fringes of the Mani Peninsula, Gerolimenas offers a unique blend of serene beauty and historical allure. Its name, believed to derive from the Greek words 'Iero' (holy) and 'limani' (port), alludes to its past significance as a sacred harbour. Despite its modest population of 43 permanent residents, as recorded in the 2011 census, Gerolimenas exudes a timeless charm that captivates visitors. The journey from the nearby Diros Caves to Gerolimenas is scenic, with the route passing through Mezapos and skirting around the Cavo Grosso—a prominent headland jutting into the Gulf of Messinia. This area, known locally as 'The Embros,' is dotted with quaint villages that are home to ancient churches, towers, and fortifications, making it a rewarding detour for those interested in exploring the rich cultural tapestry of the region.
Gerolimenas, once a bastion for Maniate pirates during the Ottoman occupation, has evolved dramatically over the centuries. Initially deserted after Greece's liberation, the village began to thrive in the 1870s when merchant Michailis Katsimantis established a pier and tower. This development attracted settlers from nearby regions, who built homes, warehouses, and businesses, including an inn. The architectural landscape of Gerolimenas from this period is marked by neoclassical buildings and preserved battle towers, reflecting its historical significance. The village became a bustling fishing hub, equipped with facilities for ice storage and fish processing, and served as a critical port for sponge boats and fishing vessels operating between Greece and Africa. In recent times, Gerolimenas has embraced tourism, hosting several hotels that honour the village's rich heritage and stunning natural beauty, all while maintaining a traditional aesthetic. This transformation from a pirate stronghold to a picturesque tourist destination underscores the dynamic history and cultural resilience of Gerolimenas.
The village of Vathia, situated 10km south of Gerolimenas, is renowned for its extensive collection of Maniate towers, making it a significant historical site in the region. Perched atop a hill and overlooking the sea, these towers form a striking image of ancient defensive architecture. Constructed from the typical grey stone of the area, the towers are 2-3 stories high and feature tiny windows designed to enhance protection against attacks from rival clans. One of the most intriguing defensive features of these towers are the holes located above the doors, which were used to pour boiling oil on invaders—an effective deterrent during periods of conflict. The strategic clustering of these robust stone houses transformed the village into a fortress that was nearly impregnable, standing as a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of its past inhabitants.
Cape Tainaron, located at the southern tip of the Mani Peninsula in Greece, is not just a geographical landmark but a portal to the past. With its commanding views over vital maritime routes, this cape has been a witness to numerous historical events, including naval operations during World War II involving the notable Greek-born Prince Philip. The Cape's lighthouse, a marvel of 19th-century engineering by French specialists, stands as a beacon of history, guiding ships with its increased beam distance since its automation in 1984.
The journey from Kalamata to Cape Tainaron is a mere 120 kilometres, but it traverses through layers of rich history and breath taking landscapes, revealing the depth of Greek heritage. This region offers a unique opportunity to explore diverse paths, each leading to different historical and mythological treasures, ensuring that every visit can offer new insights and discoveries.
14th May 2024
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