Kalamata - a jewel of a city

Kalamata may not be an obvious destination during a stay in the Peloponnese, but the city is a little gem with sparkle and allure and well worth a visit as our client Francesca Hanikova recently discovered when a ‘quick look’ turned into a full day’s excursion!

A day in Kalamata

We parked near the seafront where on-street parking is free and plentiful. Not yet 10am, the locals were busy lowering awnings against the heat, watering plants and cycling or running (!) beside the dried up river Nedonas. On the waterfront, with its smart-looking restaurants, several groups were donning wetsuits for a day’s diving and the whole place felt fresh and vibrant. It was also very clean with no litter and a complete absence of the piles of abandoned plastic bottles that are a feature of so many resorts these days.

The marina glittered in the sunshine and the yachts and gin palaces moored there reflected their opulence and sophistication on the town. At the port, we headed past the elegant customs house to Limenikou Park with its pretty fountains and tree-shaded walkways where the cafes were already busy with men chatting while fingering komboloi beads. Tempted to stop, we pushed on however across the busy Kritis highway, into the Railway Park and another world.

This huge green space in the centre of the busy city has several well-maintained children’s play areas, level walks with plenty of seating, fountains and ponds, a café serving great coffee from the former Kalamata ticket office and an open-air museum of steam trains, complete with old tracks and a footbridge.

The park is a huge draw for locals, who clearly love it, as well as tourists who, from what we witnessed, revert to childhood clambering over the engines, taking photos hanging out of the carriages and making train noises!

A Greek couple with two small children told us it was a wonderful city for families because of its green spaces, the provision of facilities and the proximity of the beach. They also pointed out that the rebuilding of the city after the 1986 earthquake had been done with vision to create the tree-lined boulevards, traffic-free areas and dedicated cycle paths, which were appreciated and enjoyed by residents and visitors alike.

And if shopping is your thing, the main drag of Aristomenous is lined with designer stores and even an M&S!

Kalamata Old Town

We headed for the old town, which hosts a twice-weekly market considered the best in the Peloponnese, and eventually found the museum beside the pretty Byzantine Church of the Apostles. It was well-curated and beautifully-presented with detailed information in English. The artefacts included some beautiful gold jewellery and an adorable votive seahorse.

Nearly four hours into our visit, we needed rest and refreshment and enjoyed both beside the water feature outside the museum, where we ate ham and cheese rolls from a nearby bakery washed down with deliciously pure, cold water from the fountain. Duly re-energised, we suddenly realised that Kalamata was settling down for her own rest and that the mesimeri -quiet time or siesta – had begun. Tables in the street behind us were now abandoned and the two restaurants in front of us had closed their doors. Traffic on the Artemidos dual carriageway had abated and, apart from the chap from the museum sitting on its step, we were quite alone.

Secret alleyways, pretty courtyards and the Cathedral of Kalamata

Strolling somnambulantly through the back streets of a silent city in the heat of the day can be quite hallucinatory and rather eerie. The pavements and walls of the buildings throbbed in the heat and we found ourselves automatically crossing to the shady side of the empty streets. We discovered pretty courtyards filled with flowers and sleeping cats, balconies with plants trailing to the street and caged canaries. We saw places with large gaps between buildings filled with weed- covered rubble – remnants of the earthquake? – and spotted some witty street art, much too clever to be despised as graffiti. Tricycles and toys lay abandoned outside closed doors and shuttered windows. If it wasn’t for the occasional sound of a television or a crying baby, you might have thought the whole city had been deserted.

Just as we decided to try to retrace our footsteps, we turned a corner and were confronted with what appeared to be a mirage, shimmering in the heat. Surrounded by a vast concourse of white stone, the immense cathedral of Kalamata loomed before us, its open doors pulling us in like a magnet. Like all Greek churches, the Ypapanti was rich and ornate but this one shouted its authority and majesty.

Suitably awed, we headed downhill for more secular delights in the form of bottled water and ice creams from a peripteros. These little kiosks selling sweets, cigarettes and magazines are a feature of Greek life and never seem to close. Fortunately, there are also plenty of them in Kalamata for crazy English people who go wandering in the mid-day sun!

We strolled back towards the marina as the white-heat of the afternoon changed to a mellower gold and a gentle breeze cooled our shoulders. The play areas that had been so busy in the morning were empty, but there were families sitting in the open-air cafes where babies dozed in prams and older children played quietly at the grown-ups’ feet.

Near where we’d left the car, a motorbike roared into life and a lady startled us by opening the shutters on her windows above our heads. Kalamata was waking up. We decided to make tracks before the spell this elegant, friendly and enchanting city had woven around us was broken.

Francesca Hanikova, Sunvil client

In summary

Kalamata offers much more than just its famous olives. As the second-largest city on the Peloponnese peninsula, located in Messinia, it boasts breathtaking natural beauty and a wealth of ancient treasures. With a variety of authentic restaurants, a charming Old Town, historic castles, a stunning cathedral, and a beautiful beach, a holiday here promises to be diverse and captivating. Situated at the foot of the Taygetos Mountains, the resort provides spectacular views over the lush valleys of the Peloponnese and the Messinian Gulf. Explore the nearby countryside, and you’ll find every road lined with neatly arranged olive groves, their branches heavy with ripe purple fruit. During the summer, the city comes alive, teeming with Athenians enjoying their holidays. It also hosts the annual Kalamata Dance Festival, drawing visitors from all around the globe.

Travel with Sunvil

Our team of Destination Specialists, with in-depth knowledge of Greece, will help you design the perfect itinerary for your holiday to Kalamata and the wider Messinia region. Whether dreaming of a city break, beach stay or exploratory fly-drive itinerary in the land of the gods, we can assist. Give our team a call, email us or use our Live Chat facility - we cannot wait to hear from you.