If you’re eating on the harbour go to Molos, the best lighting – (golden globes rather than fluorescent strips), the most interesting menu and a guitar and bouzouki player. Also the best obligatory after dinner freebie – a small glass of delicious herby local wine and light berry filo pastries. The night we went there were two dolphins playing in the harbour in front of the restaurant. Up in the town go to Anna’s, a flower filled courtyard as well as a proper indoor restaurant and some decent vegetarian menu choices – the butter bean paella was particularly interesting.
For a snack go to Skopelitikes Triopites Mixalis, known as the pie café. For obvious reasons, they just do pies, specifically the famous ‘Skopelos pie’ (recipe here). A long snake of filo pastry filled with feta, the pie is fairly standard throughout Greece but what makes it a Skopelos pie is that it is fried and not baked. At the Pie Café they do two types of ‘salt’ pie – cheese and chicken or cheese, tomato and green pepper, and two sorts of ‘sweet’ pie – custard cream or chocolate cream. The pies are made on the premises by Mama and served up by her very charming son. We had two of cheese, tomato and green pepper ones and they were very hot, very fresh and very delicious. The chocolate one was very good too. Perfect with large bottles of Mythos.